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Thursday, February 2, 2017

Puglian Peasant


~ The Puglian coastline is ancient and picturesque ~

Given the rich multitude of historical significance that rests with Roman lineage, it's hard to imagine other regions in Italy that possess significant cultural and ancient history. However, the southern province of Apulia is one such place.  Originally settled by the Mycenaean Greeks as early as 1100 BC, Apulia is one of Italy's most culturally diverse regions.

While the region is archaeologically rich, historically the people of Apulia are some of Italy's most economically disadvantaged.  Agriculture is the regions predominant industry and the cuisine is the standard bearer for the Mediterranean diet.  Rich with fish, pasta, legumes and vegetables, the region boasts the true nature of "Cucina Povera".  That extends to the hearty, rustic, earthy wines produced there. 

~ Puglian Trulli.  These stone dwellings with the conical roofs dominate the landscape around the town of Alberobello. Construction of Trulli began as field shelters for agricultural laborers, specifically during the final decade of the 19th Century, when the wine industry was burgeoning. They remain an iconic landmark of Apulia ~

~ The Cafe in Hotel Palazzesi ~
Today we're focusing on Apulia's most famous red wine, Salice Salentino.   Established as a DOC in 1976, Salice Salentino must be 75% Negroamaro to be labeled as such.  The balance of the wine can be devoted to a littany of other approved red grapes, though the majority of reputable wines will typically include higher percentages of Negroamaro and complete the blend with Malvasia Nera. Such is the case with today's example. 

The 2009 Cosimo Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva is a blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera. Cosimo Taurino is the unquestioned leader in producing Salice Salentino.  The estate harvests both grape varieties simultaneously. Given their enological similarities, the grapes typically ripen at the same time.  Harvest is completed in as little as 3 hours and the grapes are then crushed and vinified in stainless steel.  Elevation takes place in 2 year old French barriqus for 6-12 months depending upon the vintage. 

The 2009 Riserva is a medium ruby color with violet reflections.  The aromas from the glass seem typical of southern Italian coastal reds. Ripe red plums, flinty mineral, grilled meat and saline notes round out the package.  

On the palate, the wine is lively and fresh. Given the southern Italian heat, there is always the chance for overripe reds, but that's not the case at all here.  Ripe plum flavors are backed by acqualine salinity, cured olives and mineral notes.  Refreshing acidity provides lift to the wine where only medium weight tannins are present and integrated well. This is rustic and honest and will pair well with pasta, pizza and grilled lamb.  Very nice value.  88 points, about $12.

~ We paired this with an heirloom tomato salad and grilled leg of lamb ~
Salute!


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