Focus: Pio Cesare Ornato

Five generations have lead Pio Cesare through time.  For 135 years, the family has been directing the production of premium wines from their property in the center of Alba.  For several decades, fourth generation proprietor Pio Boffa has sheparded the family business and now his nephew and daughter are poised to become the 5th generation to craft wines in the Langhe.  

Pio Boffa is an amiable, charming man who is passionate about his work and generous with his time. It's hard to believe it's been four years since I sat down with him to taste his wines and discuss his philosophy; the backbone of which is balance and terroir at all costs. 

~ Piemonte is home to Barolo and Barbaresco ~

Pio Cesare owns approximately 172 acres of vineyards scattered throughout Piemonte including 80 acres in the Barolo DOCG and 66 in the Barbaresco DOCG.  The balance is devoted to Dolcetto, Barbera and Cortese.   The majority of Pio Cesare's holdings in Barolo are within Serralunga d'Alba, from which the company produces two Barolo: a blended annata wine and the single vineyard Ornato. 

~ Pio Cesare's vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba ~

One unique feature of the Pio Cesare winery is that they are one of the few producers that still operate cellars within the historical center of Alba.  Built in the 1700s, the cellars are surrounded by ancient Pompeii Roman walls which serve as the cellars main foundation and date to 50 BC.  The charm and architecture on display are nothing short of breathtaking. 

~ In this image, you can see the large columns which date to the Pompeii Roman era. Tucked in crannies are large botte, used for Pio Cesare's Barolo & Barbaresco ~

The debate rages frequently among lovers of Barolo; the new guard versus the old guard debate almost zealously over maceration times, botte or barrique aging and the length of time in wood.  What I've always appreciated about the wines of Pio Boffa, is that they represent what I call the "moderate middle".  As I mentioned above, he strives for balance first and foremost and that includes wood application so as not to mask the Piedmont terroir.  His two Barolo are crafted similarly, but distinctly, in order to showcase terroir and create two stylistically different wines. 

The 1996 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato is one such example.  Sourced from the vineyard of the same name in Serralunga d'Alba, Ornato is vinified in stainless steel where it is macerated for a relatively short time span of 30 days.  Aging takes place in a combination of barrique and botte for a total of 30 months, the first 18 of which are devoted to barrique.

We decanted the wine for 30 minutes to remove a significant amount of coffee grind like sediment.  In the glass, the wine is a healthy looking ruby color with a slight fade to copper or orange at the rim.  The aromas are lovely with dried rose, crushed cherry, dried fennel and oregano.  It's clearly entering it's latter phase of evolution.  

~ Left to Right: Cesare, Federica, Pio Boffa and Augusto Boffa ~

On the palate, this is not as effusive or robust as I remember.  There's a full bodied core of warm, dried, cherry fruit that is punctuated with fennel notes and dried leaves.  Some mushroom and orange rind character appear on the finish which is somewhat drying and obscured by tannins.  The entire experience seems somewhat muted and I wonder if at age 21 the best days of this wine are behind it. Still tasty and interesting, but not as exciting as anticipated. 89 points.  About $60 upon release.

~ Single Vineyard Barolo from Pio Cesare ~

Stay tuned for more reviews of Barolo, Barbaresco and more as we explore the Langhe over the next few weeks. 

Salute!