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Friday, October 9, 2015

Frasi: Turn of a Phrase


~ Pienza is a Unesco World Heritage Site ~

"One step after another;  one vine and then yet another;  Life ...Perseverance...."  

Such is the phrase, or Frasi, on the label of Capitoni's flagship wine.  And as I've written repeatedly,  good wine often tells an interesting story.  I was curious as to the selection of the name for this wine and my friend Joanie Karapetian also raised a curious brow.  So I went directly to the source; family winemaker Marco Capitoni.   
"Giovanni, the name "Frasi" was chosen because every vintage corresponds to a different phrase. Every year the label shows a new phrase, a metaphor to describe the nature of the vintage and our state of mind for that year." 

Marco continues...  

"Pruning, leaf removal, harvesting - all the work which we dedicate to the plant, to the leaves, to the grapes involves as a first step, then a pause, then another step and then new care and attention for the next vine in the row.  Just as one vine row follows another, in my family the generations have followed one after the other.  We press on in our daily work as cultivators of the vine, with a true day by day commitment, with a deep love for the soil that has given us this legacy and passion." 

I don't know why, but to me it makes the wine more interesting knowing this.  It also seems that if someone takes enough care to note their mindset during vendemmia,  they're probably taking excellent care of the winemaking process as well.  This clearly shows with the 2010 Frasi.




The 2010 Capitoni Frasi is a special wine indeed.  Grown at an altitude of approximately 475 meters above sea level, the 1 hectare vineyard that supplies the fruit for Frasi was planted in 1973. The age of the vineyard now contributes to the intensity and complexity of the grapes and in 2010,  the grapes were spectacular. 

Primarily Sangiovese,  Frasi includes minor portions of Canaiolo and Colorino.   After vinification in stainless steel tanks the wine is aged in 33 hectoliter French barrels for 24 months.    

In the glass, the wine is brilliant, deep ruby red with violet tones throughout.  The beauty of 2010 Sangiovese shines in this wine.  Fresh flowers, fresh mushroom, sweet pipe tobacco and toasted anise seed combine wonderfully.   On the palate the wine is refined, elegant and long with flavors of crushed wild cherry,  leaf tobacco, spice, cinnamon and a hint of brush/earth.  This is so attractive and like many other 2010s the tannins are so well integrated that they don't appear to exist.  But away from the food,  you can notice them.   Drink now or cellar 4-7 years.   94 points, about $40 retail. Disclosure:  This bottle was a producer provided sample.

For more about Capitoni,  please see my earlier article:  Famiglia Capitoni

Buon fine settimana! 


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