It's amazing to me that with everything I've written about this wonderful winery, I've never included a report on their 2006 Brunello. I have to admit, that when Illy purchased this winery, I was concerned that perhaps quality would suffer in a larger corporate conglomerate organization. But that simply hasn't materialized and in fact, with Maurizio Castelli on board, I think the wines are better than ever.
Today we're focusing on the 2006 Estate Brunello. As the interview above states, Mastrojanni is diligent with their application of oak and relies primarily on large Slavonian cask for its aging. As Maurizio told me:
"Giovanni, this
is half techical, and half philosophical. The tannins of the Brunello grape (all
Brunellos) are so strong that it has to age in wood. Oak aging is mandated at
a certain level by DOCG law. At Mastrojanni, we age our Brunello in oak
botti for 3 years. So a light oak
flavour is naturally part of its range of its flavours. What is definitely
important to us is that our Brunello must have the flavour of the Sangiovese
grown in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, not a chocolate or vanilla or licorice liquid
with a touch of grape flavour! "
The 2006 Mastrojanni Brunello is a deep, red, garnet color clear through to the rim. There is no signs of aging from this powerful vintage. Aromas from the glass are easily coaxed and include Sage, spices, and flowers to compliment the intense crushed berry aroma. Flavors largely mimic the aromas, but this wine sets itself apart with its tactile nature. It's juicy, with powdery silky tannins that are almost mouthwatering. It's concentrated and full bodied but nimble and refreshing. Classic wine in a classic vintage. 95 points and great value around $45.
~ Wonderful Tuscan Sangiovese ~ |
Salute!
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