~ The Val d'Orcia ~ |
Despite the extensive coverage of Brunello di Montalcino, perhaps Tuscany's most revered wine, if you ask an average person to name a Tuscan wine, indeed any Italian wine, they'll likely respond "Chianti". For years Chianti has been beleagured by a sea of mediocre wine, exported in fiasco - those straw covered bottles that end up on bars in 1970's finished basements. However, nowadays those examples have become the exception. In all its derivations, Chianti has become a quality wine and in many instances, an exceptional value. With a string of several lovely vintages available in the market, it has never been easier to enjoy these lovely Sangiovese based wines.
This report focuses on recent releases and vintages widely available in the marketplace. Producers of Chianti age and release their wines at many different times. Most Chianti are available in the market two years after the harvest but many producers age their wines longer than required so vintage availability varies. The majority of the wines covered in this report are from 2010, 2011, and 2012. Many of the 2010 wines are Riservas that must be aged an additional year before release. Additionally, a few of the wines reviewed now bear the new Gran Selezione designation.
Below is a synopsis of the basic parameters for production of Chianti Classico. There are a few non-Classico Chianti in this report, however the legal requirements differ for each subzone. The most significant difference is that the subzones allow wines to be made from only 70% Sangiovese, whereas Chianti Classico requires at least 80%.
Basic Requirements for Chianti Classico
1) Wines must be made from at least 80% Sangiovese and up to 20% of other aproved grapes such as Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Canaiolo, Colorino, etc.
2) Wines must be aged for a minimum of 1 year; 2 years for Riserva plus 3 months in bottle, and 30 months for Gran Selezione including 3 months in bottle.
3) Gran Selezione must only be produced from estate grown grapes.
~ Castello di Volpaia, Radda in Chianti ~ |
General Vintage Overview
2010: An excellent vintage for Chianti and Tuscany in general. Wines are ripe with good structure and balance and lots of freshness. Many of these wines, especially the Riservas, will age well up to 10-15 years.
2011: This vintage may slightly eclipse 2010. Most of the early release wines show wonderfully vibrant fruit with lots of floral aromatics and wonderful balance.
2012: Many of the wines from this vintage have not been released. Whether held at distributors or in the hands of the producers, availability at this writing is scattered. These wines, like their Rosso di Montalcino cousins, show tremendous promise for racy, ripe fruit, balance and delicate floral aromatics.
As with all TuscanVines® tasting reports, wines were tasted with and without food, at the dinner table in a relaxed atmosphere. Prices provided are the importers SRP so local pricing may vary. If any of the wines submitted seemed amiss after tasting, they were tasted again blind at a later date. Finally, in order to give readers an idea of where their preference for terroir may lie, I am denoting the commune from where the wine hails at the beginning of each review. Enjoy!
I Vini di Chianti e Chianti Classico
"Producing wine is a peasant art, made up of patience and foresight of imagining the vineyard before planting the young vines and preparing for them a welcoming place, one where they will feel at home and live for many years, accompanied by the love, the care, and the patience of a special person: the grower-producer." ....Vittorio Fiore
~ Sloping Vineyards at Podere Poggio Scalette, Greve in Chianti ~ |
The 2011 Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico ~ Greve ~ is a bright medium ruby color in the glass. On the nose, there's a soft whiff of sandalwood with red cherry and dried herbs appearing. Somewhat simple. On the palate, the wine is defined by tart wild cherry that is somewhat one dimensional. Soft wood notes appear on the finish. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 100% Sangiovese. 86 points. SRP ~ $20.
~ 2011 Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico ~ |
From a long standing relationship with growers throughout the zone, Castello Banfi creates a value oriented Chianti Classico that is typically soft and approachable. The current release, 2012, is no exception.
The 2012 Banfi Chianti Classico appears a pretty dark violet color. Comprised predominantly of Sangiovese with small parts Canaiolo and Cabernet this has nice soft notes of berry and flowers on the nose. Soft bodied on the palate with red grapey flavors that are fresh and straightforward. Better slightly chilled. This is not complex but paired nicely with pizza margherita. 84 points. SRP ~ $13.
~ Banfi Chianti Classico 2012: Benefactor of the excellent vintage I'd suspect. Not a fan of this label ~ |
This past summer, I visited Castello di Volpaia and penned an article on the attractive hamlet located in Radda. Volpaia is unique. The winery and the surrounding buildings actually comprise the small village of Volpaia; population, about fifty.
The 2011 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico ~ Radda ~ is a pretty dark ruby in the glass. Immediately there is lots of sweet tobacco on the nose mingling with crushed cherry. Very attractive. On the palate, this 100% Sangiovese displays a solid core of bright berry and some black olive notes. This is juicy and fresh. The finish adds some tartness and spice. Very good. 89 points ~ $20.
~ Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2011 ~ |
The next wine is the sibling to Banfi's Chianti Classico. Like the former, the 2010 Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva is also mostly Sangiovese with tiny dollops of Canaiolo and Cabernet. The wine is a dark ruby with violet toned highlights. More polished on the palate than the Classico, this has moderate tannins with cherry, anise and spice on both the nose and palate. This is a solid effort and a good value. Paired well with Pasta alla Norma. 85 points. ~ SRP $17.
~ 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva, Banfi ~ |
Founded in 1977, the Castellare estate is relatively young. However, the estate is fortunate enough to hold some of the highest vineyard parcels in all of Chianti Classico. Located in Castellina, the 46 acre estate has become a sort of natural refuge for forestry and wildlife. In fact, many of the birds that grace Castellare's label are native to their estate - which is legally protected. Each label changes with the vintage; a nod to these protected birds.
The 2012 Castellare Chianti Classico ~ Castellina in Chianti ~ is delicious. The medium ruby color is pretty and yields to a lovely aromatic profile replete with flowers, I swear I wrote Marigolds, crushed red cherries and soft spice notes. Ripe red fruits and spice greet the palate along with a trailing note of black olive. Very nice with a juicy fresh finish. With slivers of aged Pecorino, it absolutely sang. 90 points. SRP ~ $15.
"Classico cannot be classic anymore if you blend it with international grapes!"
The Monopole of Monteraponi sits amid the gorgeous rolling hills of Radda and the quote above epitomizes Braganti's vision for what his wine should be in a nutshell. Consistently they have been wonderful soulful wines. Such is the case with their most recent releases.
Next up was the single vineyard wine from Monteraponi that is quickly becoming one of my favorite wines from the appellation. The 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva "Il Campitello" ~ Radda ~ is simply delicious. I love this vineyard and I've not had a wine from it yet that I did not think was spectacular. The deep ruby color is sexy and alluring. The aromas are redolent of flowers, bright red fruits, and minerals. The flavors follow the nose and add a savory, tart mouth watering sensation that compels each and every sip. It stands among my favorite Chianti wines and a must purchase each vintage. 94 points. About $30.
Following up the two wines from Monteraponi was the excellent wine from Castello di Volpaia that is somewhat of an oddity. Coltassala is 100% Sangiovese and had been bottled for years as a "Super Tuscan". When the laws for Chianti Classico changed to permit 100% Sangiovese wines in the appellation, many producers refused to relabel their wines. Cepparello, Percarlo, Flaccianello, etc... all remained Tuscan IGT's in order to maintain their branding. Volpaia chose to add the Chianti Classico designation to their wine while still retaining the Coltassala name.
There are two things in my mind that will be forever linked to Panzano: Dario Cecchini and Fontodi. Very little can go wrong when you start with organic grapes sourced from Tuscany's illustrious Val d'Orcia region, add in a dedicated proprietor in Giovanni Manetti and then give the reins to the likes of Franco Bernabei. It's a winning formula, and for this venerable Tuscan estate in Panzano, success almost seems a foregone conclusion.
I've been critical of Fontodi's Chianti Classico in the past; not because of the quality in the bottle, but for the prices the wines command. With the 2010 vintage, pricing seems to have eased on the Classico somewhat. Careful readers can locate this bottle between $25-$29 and at that price, I've stocked up.
The 2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico ~ Panzano ~ is a gorgeous deep shimmering ruby. The nose is replete with dusty Tuscan road, vibrant cherry, spices and tobacco. Compelling. On the palate, wonderful crushed cherry flavors are fresh and bright with added notes of earth, spices and lovely ripe tobacco. This is delicious and very classy. 92 points. Approximately $25.
Castellare is on a roll right now. With their 2012 Classico that reviewed so well above and now with that wine's sibling, the 2011 Il Poggiale Chianti Classico Riserva ~ Castellina in Chianti. We decanted this wine for about 60 minutes as it was very tight upon opening. It's a dark ruby in the glass with penetrating aromas of coffee, cherries, leather and dusty spices on the nose. The flavors match the aromas well with a strong added note of fresh fennel that is very appealing. This is full bodied and very muscular with large scale acids and tannins ramped up in balance with the fruit. Well done. 92 points. SRP ~ $45.
Not far from the reaches of Panzano lies the small hamlet of Barberino d' Elsa; home to many a fine winery including Castello di Monsanto. Run today by family proprietor Laura Bianchi, the estate has always been a bastion of time honored production methods. Laura summed it up nicely for me:
“Our goal is to make wines of integrity and personality that are true to their terroir. And if this means that we have had to back away from certain technological advances and remain firm in the face of pressure to make wines of the moment, it’s a risk my family and I have been more than willing to take.”
The classically produced 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva ~ Barberino d'Elsa ~ is a medium ruby color. The wine is a traditional blend, with 90% Sangiovese joined by 5% each of Colorino and Canaiolo. Pretty floral aromatics present the nose with tightly wound cherry and spice aromas contributing. On the palate, there is a nice core of bright berry fruit with leaf tobacco, cake spices, and a trace of vanilla. Good balance. Paired very well with chianti braised chicken with spinach. 90 points. SRP ~ $24.
Fattoria Petriolo lies in Rignano Sull 'Arno southeast of Florence. Proprietro Matteo Sorelli runs the estate, which has been home to many Tuscan families over the centuries. Most of the estate was originally planted in 1932, but replantings have been made between 5 and 25 years ago.
The 2011 Chianti Riserva is a blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet and 5% Merlot. In the glass, the wine is a deep vibrant ruby. Lively aromas of fresh raspberry, tobacco and pepper are notable. This is full bodied with finely knit tannins. The core of berry fruit add dried herbs, pepper and a mild astringency to the tannins at the moment. Matured 6 months in botte and 2 months in barrique before release. This is more rustic and needs food. With Stufato di Maiale it was a nice foil. 86 points. EU only.
We are very familiar with Tolaini here at TuscanVines and with good reason. Quality wine. Great people. Excellent breadth to the portfolio. However, this report includes something new from Tolaini - a first taste of their new Gran Selezione.
The 2011 Tolaini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ~ Castelnuovo Berardenga ~ is a gorgeous black ruby color. Very deeply hued. The nose is absolutely fantastic with espresso bean, cherry cordial, bitter chocolate and fennel combining. Wow! On the palate, the wine is equally impressive with ripe cherry, fennel and spice notes fading to soft leather on the finish. This is awesome. 93 points ~ SRP $35.
Podere Poggio Scalette became an autonomous wine-producing estate in 1991 when noted wine consultant Vittorio Fiore and his wife Adriana Assjè di Marcorà acquired several plots of land and a rural building on the hill of Ruffoli, in the commune of Greve. The vineyards lie on terraced slopes, called "Il Carbonaione" by the local peasants and were among the first vineyards planted immediately after World War I.
The 2012 Chianti Classico ~ Greve ~ is a much stronger effort than the 2011 addressed above. To this I can only assume the 2012 vintage for Podere Scallette to be more favorable than its predecessor.
A medium ruby with violet reflections in the glass, this has pretty aromatic floral notes with crushed berry and piney underbrush notes. Much fresher on the palate than the 2011, this is fleshier, silkier with ripe cherry fruit, a touch of vanilla and pretty earth notes. Really very nice and another harbinger of the wonderful 2012 vintage in Tuscany. 88 points, SRP ~ $22.
Rocca della Macie fell out of favor in the late 1990's and went through a middling phase of production. I was never really able to put my finger on it, but whether it was too many purchased grapes contributing to lack of control or poor cellar methods, all that seems to be a thing of the past.
The 2009 Chianti Classico ~ Castellina in Chianti ~ is a wonderful effort. Medium ruby in the glass, with some violet reflections, this wine reminds me of it's older sibling I reviewed not long ago.
The taster is greeted by aromas of ripe cherry and soft spice notes. On the palate, the flavors follow the nose and add a sense of minerality and a dusty tone. This is very nice. Approachable now and a very good value at under $12. 88 points.
Perhaps the next wine was one of the more unique in the tasting. The 2010 San Felice Chianti Classico ~ Castelnuovo Berardenga ~ sports an interesting blend that is 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino and 10% Pugnitello. The latter grape was nearly extinct until the San Felice team revived it.
The 2010 is classically styled. The medium ruby wine has soft fruit and spice aromas. Red plums and cinnamon dot the palate in this straight forward workhorse. Tasty enough, but not the most complex wine in this report. 86 points. SRP ~ $15.
As I mentioned above, the Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva was very nice. But if you want it nicer, then this is your chance...
The 2009 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva "Il Poggio" ~ Barberino d'Elsa ~ is a stunning wine from a wonderful vintage. And less readers be confused; 2009 was much fresher in Chianti Classico than it was in Brunello where the heat of the vintage played a much more prominent role. This brightly colored violet to ruby wine has effusive aromas of flowers, spice, new leather and lively crushed berry notes. Wild berry fruit on the palate dominates with added hints of tobacco and dried herbs. This is lovely, lovely and despite its accessibility at the moment, will drink well easily until its 10th birthday. 93 points. SRP ~ $50.
The next wine up was the sibling wine from Petriolo. I expected this to be a "lesser" wine than the Riserva tasted above simply because it lacked the Riserva designation but I was proven emphatically wrong. The 2012 Petriolo Chianti ~ Valdarno ~ is a deep ruby colored wine with wonderful aromas of earth, berry and tobacco. Bright focused crushed berry on the palate with large framed fruit. Excellent structure and balance with a long finish replete with fruit, herbs and sweet pipe tobacco. Impressive indeed. 91 points. EU Only.
This next wine represents a TuscanVines first. I have the honor of being the first US journalist to receive this wine, so this next review is truly exclusive. As I've mentioned on Twitter many times; "My insight. Your advantage."
The estate of Fonte Alla Selva lies in the heart of Castellina in Chianti just down the road from Villa Cerna and Rocca della Macie. Castello Banfi has recently acquired the sole rights to the property and has signed a 30 year lease to manage the estate. The results have been immediate and stunning. The 2012 Fonte Alla Selva Chianti Classico ~ Castellina in Chianti ~ is a deep garnet color. Lovely aromas of ripe red fruits with dried herbs, flowers and spices are prevalent. Flavors follow the nose with an added mineral tactile sense that is very appealing. Silky, ripe tannins. This has a long, lovely finish and is a new player in Chianti Classico to be reckoned with. 92 points. SRP ~ $22-$25.
I've written lots about Castello di Bossi and the wines of the Bacci family so given that impressive track record, I expected nothing less from their Riserva in a great vintage. Mission accomplished.
The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo ~ Castelnuovo Berardenga ~ is impressive on all fronts. It's a gorgeous deep ruby color with violet reflections throughout. It's got it all on the nose. Pipe tobacco, flowers, violets, menthol, crushed wild berries...and more. Intense aromas. The flavors are full bodied, ripe and balanced with new leather, turned earth, crushed cherry and a trace of mint. I adore this wine and while not inexpensive, it's worth the tariff. An added bonus? This will cellar well for 10-15 years. 94 points. SRP ~ $40
Not to be out done - the younger sibling of Castello di Bossi seems to say "Hey, what about me?" what about you indeed....
The Castello di Bossi 2010 is a wonderful Chianti Classico. It simply screams Toscana in all aspects and captures the essence of the Sangiovese grape perfectly. It's a deep garnet with violet highlights - vibrant, intense and welcoming in color. Aromatically, the wine borders on profound. I realize that's a strong word, but it reflects everything I feel must be included in a Chianti Classico. There's floral notes, crushed wild red fruits, sweet pipe tobacco, soft earthy notes and wonderful Tuscan herb highlights. On the palate, the wine is concentrated and well balanced with moderate tannins and acids that keep the wine fresh and enhance it's marriage with food. There's abundant crushed red berry with added notes of fennel, tobacco leaf and a soft hint of coffee. It's just an absolute joy to drink and it's also a great value. Stock up on this. 92 points. SRP ~ $17.
I was not at all familiar with the next wine in this report but it garnered the praise of a salesman at my local market so I figured I'd give it a try. Sometimes you get burned by this strategy, but the price wasn't bad so I took a flyer.
Natale Verga is a large producer of wine via mainly purchased grapes. The company makes wines from Barolo, Chianti, Prosecco and Abruzzo to name just a few. The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva ~ Castellina in Chianti ~ is very nice. It's a medium ruby with lots of dried herbs, spices and cherry on the nose. In the mouth, there's a substantial dusty texture to the core of red fruit with silky tannins that make this ready to drink now. There's lots of ripe berry and cherry to enjoy. With more air time, a bit of tobacco leaf emerged on the nose. Elegant and full bodied, this isn't one to age, but will easily last 3-5 years and is quite a nice value at $15. 89 points. SRP ~ $15.
Volpaia's origins date back to the year 1172, but it wasn't until the mid 1970's that the Mascheroni Stianti family, led by the husband and wife team of Carlo and Giovanella, decided to modernize the winery and begin commercial production on a scale never before implemented at Volpaia.
For this report we tasted the 2010 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva ~ Radda ~ At once you are struck by the intense inky dark color of this Riserva. In the glass, the wine is a deep purple hued violet with nary a trace of lightening clear through to the rim of the glass.
The 2012 Castellare Chianti Classico ~ Castellina in Chianti ~ is delicious. The medium ruby color is pretty and yields to a lovely aromatic profile replete with flowers, I swear I wrote Marigolds, crushed red cherries and soft spice notes. Ripe red fruits and spice greet the palate along with a trailing note of black olive. Very nice with a juicy fresh finish. With slivers of aged Pecorino, it absolutely sang. 90 points. SRP ~ $15.
~ In true Tuscan tradition, this as better with food, than without. But with the former, it was delicious ~ |
"Classico cannot be classic anymore if you blend it with international grapes!"
The Monopole of Monteraponi sits amid the gorgeous rolling hills of Radda and the quote above epitomizes Braganti's vision for what his wine should be in a nutshell. Consistently they have been wonderful soulful wines. Such is the case with their most recent releases.
~ Large Botte in the Cellars at Monteraponi ~ |
The 2011 Monteraponi Chianti Classico ~ Radda ~ is a medium ruby in the glass with pretty violet reflections as the light prisms through the bowl. Aromas of fresh flowers, crushed cherries and new leather fill the glass. What might come across as slightly lean without food is quickly rectified when enjoyed in the proper context. This is absolutely delicious Chianti. Fresh and vibrant on the palate with wild cherry flavors that are savory and just slightly tart - mouth wateringly so. There's a dusty mineral streak on the finish that is accented with earthy trces and moderate tannins that are well balanced. Vinified in cement vats and large oak barrels, with no added yeasts and organic vineyard methods, this is exactly what a pure, stripped down Chianti should be. 89 points. About $17.
~ Delicious & consistent. Monteraponi is a "go to" producer ~ |
Next up was the single vineyard wine from Monteraponi that is quickly becoming one of my favorite wines from the appellation. The 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva "Il Campitello" ~ Radda ~ is simply delicious. I love this vineyard and I've not had a wine from it yet that I did not think was spectacular. The deep ruby color is sexy and alluring. The aromas are redolent of flowers, bright red fruits, and minerals. The flavors follow the nose and add a savory, tart mouth watering sensation that compels each and every sip. It stands among my favorite Chianti wines and a must purchase each vintage. 94 points. About $30.
~ The single vineyard Il Campitello excelled with Pasta dressed with wild boar sausage ~ |
Following up the two wines from Monteraponi was the excellent wine from Castello di Volpaia that is somewhat of an oddity. Coltassala is 100% Sangiovese and had been bottled for years as a "Super Tuscan". When the laws for Chianti Classico changed to permit 100% Sangiovese wines in the appellation, many producers refused to relabel their wines. Cepparello, Percarlo, Flaccianello, etc... all remained Tuscan IGT's in order to maintain their branding. Volpaia chose to add the Chianti Classico designation to their wine while still retaining the Coltassala name.
The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva "Coltassala" ~ Radda ~ is a deep ruby that fades slightly at the rim. There are lots of dusty cherries and spices on the nose, which is somewhat reserved. Tight on the palate, also reserved, there are mouth watering sour cherries with spices, sandalwood and pepper. This needs cellaring. I think it'll be great, but it's not there yet. Patience will be rewarded but at the instant moment, 89 points with lots of upside. ~ SRP $35.
~ Now a single vineyard Chianti Classico Riserva, Coltassala is 100% Sangiovese ~ |
Named after her favorite Aunt, Lia Tolaini created the wines of Donna Laura in tribute. Crafted in stainless steel and aged in tonneaux, the 2012 Donna Laura Chianti Classico ~ Castelnuovo Berardenga ~ is 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot. The color is a pretty medium ruby with dusty spices, cherries and dried savory herbs on the nose. Light to medium bodied on the palate with a core of soft red fruits that are accented by savory dried herbs and tannins that are a touch drying. Better with food than without, this will pair nicely with pizza and pasta. 86 points. ~ SRP $15
Campochiarenti. From the heart of San Gimignano. I've written about this estate in detail after visiting with Daniele last summer. We strike a familiar tune here given my recent article. These wines should not be dismissed casually. And this is another wonderful example.
The 2012 Campochiarenti Chianti Colli Senesi ~ San Gimignano ~ is a deep violet red through to the rim. The wine is 85% Sangiovese with the balance to numerous other allowed red grapes. This is juicy & fruity with dusty ripe tannins. Round and soft with lovely flowers and spices on the nose and palate. This is really wonderful and while not overly complex it is delicious and exactly what it is supposed to be. Finishes fresh & vibrant. 87 points. About 10 Euro. Not imported to the United States.
There are two things in my mind that will be forever linked to Panzano: Dario Cecchini and Fontodi. Very little can go wrong when you start with organic grapes sourced from Tuscany's illustrious Val d'Orcia region, add in a dedicated proprietor in Giovanni Manetti and then give the reins to the likes of Franco Bernabei. It's a winning formula, and for this venerable Tuscan estate in Panzano, success almost seems a foregone conclusion.
~ Proprietor Giovanni Manetti ~ |
I've been critical of Fontodi's Chianti Classico in the past; not because of the quality in the bottle, but for the prices the wines command. With the 2010 vintage, pricing seems to have eased on the Classico somewhat. Careful readers can locate this bottle between $25-$29 and at that price, I've stocked up.
The 2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico ~ Panzano ~ is a gorgeous deep shimmering ruby. The nose is replete with dusty Tuscan road, vibrant cherry, spices and tobacco. Compelling. On the palate, wonderful crushed cherry flavors are fresh and bright with added notes of earth, spices and lovely ripe tobacco. This is delicious and very classy. 92 points. Approximately $25.
~ This wine was delicious in Tuscany and it's just as delicious here at home ~ |
Castellare is on a roll right now. With their 2012 Classico that reviewed so well above and now with that wine's sibling, the 2011 Il Poggiale Chianti Classico Riserva ~ Castellina in Chianti. We decanted this wine for about 60 minutes as it was very tight upon opening. It's a dark ruby in the glass with penetrating aromas of coffee, cherries, leather and dusty spices on the nose. The flavors match the aromas well with a strong added note of fresh fennel that is very appealing. This is full bodied and very muscular with large scale acids and tannins ramped up in balance with the fruit. Well done. 92 points. SRP ~ $45.
~ This mostly Sangiovese Chianti Classico Riserva is a great effort in 2011 ~ |
Not far from the reaches of Panzano lies the small hamlet of Barberino d' Elsa; home to many a fine winery including Castello di Monsanto. Run today by family proprietor Laura Bianchi, the estate has always been a bastion of time honored production methods. Laura summed it up nicely for me:
“Our goal is to make wines of integrity and personality that are true to their terroir. And if this means that we have had to back away from certain technological advances and remain firm in the face of pressure to make wines of the moment, it’s a risk my family and I have been more than willing to take.”
~ Proprietor & Winemaker Laura Bianchi ~ |
The classically produced 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva ~ Barberino d'Elsa ~ is a medium ruby color. The wine is a traditional blend, with 90% Sangiovese joined by 5% each of Colorino and Canaiolo. Pretty floral aromatics present the nose with tightly wound cherry and spice aromas contributing. On the palate, there is a nice core of bright berry fruit with leaf tobacco, cake spices, and a trace of vanilla. Good balance. Paired very well with chianti braised chicken with spinach. 90 points. SRP ~ $24.
~ The Castello di Monsanto Riserva is a very nice value - even moreso if you like the traditional style ~ |
Fattoria Petriolo lies in Rignano Sull 'Arno southeast of Florence. Proprietro Matteo Sorelli runs the estate, which has been home to many Tuscan families over the centuries. Most of the estate was originally planted in 1932, but replantings have been made between 5 and 25 years ago.
The 2011 Chianti Riserva is a blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet and 5% Merlot. In the glass, the wine is a deep vibrant ruby. Lively aromas of fresh raspberry, tobacco and pepper are notable. This is full bodied with finely knit tannins. The core of berry fruit add dried herbs, pepper and a mild astringency to the tannins at the moment. Matured 6 months in botte and 2 months in barrique before release. This is more rustic and needs food. With Stufato di Maiale it was a nice foil. 86 points. EU only.
~ A nice effort and I absolutely love the label ~ |
We are very familiar with Tolaini here at TuscanVines and with good reason. Quality wine. Great people. Excellent breadth to the portfolio. However, this report includes something new from Tolaini - a first taste of their new Gran Selezione.
The 2011 Tolaini Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ~ Castelnuovo Berardenga ~ is a gorgeous black ruby color. Very deeply hued. The nose is absolutely fantastic with espresso bean, cherry cordial, bitter chocolate and fennel combining. Wow! On the palate, the wine is equally impressive with ripe cherry, fennel and spice notes fading to soft leather on the finish. This is awesome. 93 points ~ SRP $35.
~ 100% Sangiovese from the Montebello Vineyard on the Tolaini Estate ~ |
The 2012 Chianti Classico ~ Greve ~ is a much stronger effort than the 2011 addressed above. To this I can only assume the 2012 vintage for Podere Scallette to be more favorable than its predecessor.
A medium ruby with violet reflections in the glass, this has pretty aromatic floral notes with crushed berry and piney underbrush notes. Much fresher on the palate than the 2011, this is fleshier, silkier with ripe cherry fruit, a touch of vanilla and pretty earth notes. Really very nice and another harbinger of the wonderful 2012 vintage in Tuscany. 88 points, SRP ~ $22.
~ A winner from Vittorio Fiore ~ |
Rocca della Macie fell out of favor in the late 1990's and went through a middling phase of production. I was never really able to put my finger on it, but whether it was too many purchased grapes contributing to lack of control or poor cellar methods, all that seems to be a thing of the past.
The 2009 Chianti Classico ~ Castellina in Chianti ~ is a wonderful effort. Medium ruby in the glass, with some violet reflections, this wine reminds me of it's older sibling I reviewed not long ago.
The taster is greeted by aromas of ripe cherry and soft spice notes. On the palate, the flavors follow the nose and add a sense of minerality and a dusty tone. This is very nice. Approachable now and a very good value at under $12. 88 points.
~ The Zingarelli family has this estate headed in the right direction ~ |
Perhaps the next wine was one of the more unique in the tasting. The 2010 San Felice Chianti Classico ~ Castelnuovo Berardenga ~ sports an interesting blend that is 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino and 10% Pugnitello. The latter grape was nearly extinct until the San Felice team revived it.
The 2010 is classically styled. The medium ruby wine has soft fruit and spice aromas. Red plums and cinnamon dot the palate in this straight forward workhorse. Tasty enough, but not the most complex wine in this report. 86 points. SRP ~ $15.
~ This odd blend features 10% Pugnitello - an obscure grape almost extinct in Tuscany ~ |
As I mentioned above, the Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva was very nice. But if you want it nicer, then this is your chance...
The 2009 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva "Il Poggio" ~ Barberino d'Elsa ~ is a stunning wine from a wonderful vintage. And less readers be confused; 2009 was much fresher in Chianti Classico than it was in Brunello where the heat of the vintage played a much more prominent role. This brightly colored violet to ruby wine has effusive aromas of flowers, spice, new leather and lively crushed berry notes. Wild berry fruit on the palate dominates with added hints of tobacco and dried herbs. This is lovely, lovely and despite its accessibility at the moment, will drink well easily until its 10th birthday. 93 points. SRP ~ $50.
~ The label as classy as the wine ~ |
The next wine up was the sibling wine from Petriolo. I expected this to be a "lesser" wine than the Riserva tasted above simply because it lacked the Riserva designation but I was proven emphatically wrong. The 2012 Petriolo Chianti ~ Valdarno ~ is a deep ruby colored wine with wonderful aromas of earth, berry and tobacco. Bright focused crushed berry on the palate with large framed fruit. Excellent structure and balance with a long finish replete with fruit, herbs and sweet pipe tobacco. Impressive indeed. 91 points. EU Only.
~ This is a wine my European Readers should eagerly seek out ~ |
This next wine represents a TuscanVines first. I have the honor of being the first US journalist to receive this wine, so this next review is truly exclusive. As I've mentioned on Twitter many times; "My insight. Your advantage."
The estate of Fonte Alla Selva lies in the heart of Castellina in Chianti just down the road from Villa Cerna and Rocca della Macie. Castello Banfi has recently acquired the sole rights to the property and has signed a 30 year lease to manage the estate. The results have been immediate and stunning. The 2012 Fonte Alla Selva Chianti Classico ~ Castellina in Chianti ~ is a deep garnet color. Lovely aromas of ripe red fruits with dried herbs, flowers and spices are prevalent. Flavors follow the nose with an added mineral tactile sense that is very appealing. Silky, ripe tannins. This has a long, lovely finish and is a new player in Chianti Classico to be reckoned with. 92 points. SRP ~ $22-$25.
~ Fonte Alla Selva hand harvests the Sangiovese and the grapes are transported to the Castello Banfi winery in Montalcino ~ |
I've written lots about Castello di Bossi and the wines of the Bacci family so given that impressive track record, I expected nothing less from their Riserva in a great vintage. Mission accomplished.
The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo ~ Castelnuovo Berardenga ~ is impressive on all fronts. It's a gorgeous deep ruby color with violet reflections throughout. It's got it all on the nose. Pipe tobacco, flowers, violets, menthol, crushed wild berries...and more. Intense aromas. The flavors are full bodied, ripe and balanced with new leather, turned earth, crushed cherry and a trace of mint. I adore this wine and while not inexpensive, it's worth the tariff. An added bonus? This will cellar well for 10-15 years. 94 points. SRP ~ $40
~ The Single Vineyard 100% Sangiovese - another beautiful wine from the Bacci family ~ |
Not to be out done - the younger sibling of Castello di Bossi seems to say "Hey, what about me?" what about you indeed....
The Castello di Bossi 2010 is a wonderful Chianti Classico. It simply screams Toscana in all aspects and captures the essence of the Sangiovese grape perfectly. It's a deep garnet with violet highlights - vibrant, intense and welcoming in color. Aromatically, the wine borders on profound. I realize that's a strong word, but it reflects everything I feel must be included in a Chianti Classico. There's floral notes, crushed wild red fruits, sweet pipe tobacco, soft earthy notes and wonderful Tuscan herb highlights. On the palate, the wine is concentrated and well balanced with moderate tannins and acids that keep the wine fresh and enhance it's marriage with food. There's abundant crushed red berry with added notes of fennel, tobacco leaf and a soft hint of coffee. It's just an absolute joy to drink and it's also a great value. Stock up on this. 92 points. SRP ~ $17.
~ Check out the color on this pure Sangiovese ~ |
Natale Verga is a large producer of wine via mainly purchased grapes. The company makes wines from Barolo, Chianti, Prosecco and Abruzzo to name just a few. The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva ~ Castellina in Chianti ~ is very nice. It's a medium ruby with lots of dried herbs, spices and cherry on the nose. In the mouth, there's a substantial dusty texture to the core of red fruit with silky tannins that make this ready to drink now. There's lots of ripe berry and cherry to enjoy. With more air time, a bit of tobacco leaf emerged on the nose. Elegant and full bodied, this isn't one to age, but will easily last 3-5 years and is quite a nice value at $15. 89 points. SRP ~ $15.
~ From a large Fattoria comes this very nice Chianti Classico Riserva ~ |
Volpaia's origins date back to the year 1172, but it wasn't until the mid 1970's that the Mascheroni Stianti family, led by the husband and wife team of Carlo and Giovanella, decided to modernize the winery and begin commercial production on a scale never before implemented at Volpaia.
Today, the winery and the village
support and farm over 900 acres of land, of which 120 are dedicated to
vineyards, 40 that are devoted to olive groves and the balance to
natural forest, cover crops and the village structures themselves.
For this report we tasted the 2010 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva ~ Radda ~ At once you are struck by the intense inky dark color of this Riserva. In the glass, the wine is a deep purple hued violet with nary a trace of lightening clear through to the rim of the glass.
On the nose, the wine is redolent of
freshly crushed black fruit, with sage and lavender aromas along with
soft toned fresh mushroom notes. This is wonderful to smell. On the
palate the wine is medium to full bodied with a suave, polished core of
black fruit and forest notes with sage, earth and lavender in supporting
roles. This is 100% Sangiovese that is naturally fermented in
stainless steel and then aged in a combination of Gamba botte and French
barrique. There is stunning purity here and it's an exceptional value for a Riserva from a benchmark
vintage. 93 points. SRP ~ $26.
~ Very versatile: Paired well with Bistecca Fiorentina and Swordfish with a "Puttanesca Relish" ~ |
Finally, we finished this lengthy report with the newest release from the heralded Fonterutoli estate. Long a premier name in Chianti Classico, this wine did not disappoint.
The 2011 Fonterutoli Chianti Classico ~ Castellina in Chianti ~ is a pretty dary ruby color throughout. The nose is exotic, with dried herbs, mocha/vanilla, crushed cherry and leaf tobacco. Medium bodied with substantial tannins and lots of wild berry on the palate. Tannins assert themselves more on the finish and although they don't obscure the fruit, this wine needs 2-3 years in the cellar to shed some of those. What emerges should be quite nice. 89+ points. SRP ~ $24.
~ Although a bit infused with some oak aromas, they did not detract on the palate. ~ |
Closing Notes
The wines reviewed in this article scored between 84-94 points; so finding a quality bottle of Sangiovese is not hard given the excellent string of vintages spanning 2010-2012.
In many cases, the wines - especially the Riservas - can be excellent values since they compare favorably to Vino Nobile and Brunello and are typically slightly less expensive than those Tuscan contemporaries.
By including the Commune where the grapes were harvested, it's my hope that the reader can glean additional information to guide their purchases. For my tastes, I've discovered my preference for wines from Panzano, Castellina and Radda. Not a bad starting point.
As always, thanks to the importers and distributors who contributed to this report and for your support of TuscanVines.
Salute!
In many cases, the wines - especially the Riservas - can be excellent values since they compare favorably to Vino Nobile and Brunello and are typically slightly less expensive than those Tuscan contemporaries.
By including the Commune where the grapes were harvested, it's my hope that the reader can glean additional information to guide their purchases. For my tastes, I've discovered my preference for wines from Panzano, Castellina and Radda. Not a bad starting point.
As always, thanks to the importers and distributors who contributed to this report and for your support of TuscanVines.
Salute!
Seems like you had a wonderful extensive tasting through the world of Chianti Classico. I visited Castellare myself a year ago and was impressed with their wines. It's been awhile since I've had some of the others. Nicely done.
ReplyDeleteThanks Jennifer. I was impressed with Castellare too. Earlier this year I tasted the 2009 I Sodi San Niccolo and was equally impressed. I only wish that wine were a bit lower in price. It was excellent. Anyway, thanks for reading and commenting. Cin Cin!
ReplyDeletePretty girl, pretty wines, and a massive undertaking; I can hardly do one at a time, but hopefully the Castellare 2013 will be done by the end of today!
ReplyDeleteSalute!
Dennis, Laura Bianchi? Yes, very... A nice lady too. Thanks for reading and commenting as always amico!
ReplyDelete