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Thursday, October 23, 2014

The Estate of San Giusto


~ Aging bottles in San Guisto's Cantina ~
 
The San Giusto a Rentennano Estate has roots as far back as the ancient Etruscans. Located in Gaiole in Chianti, the estate was acquired in 1957 via inheritance by Enrico Martini di Cigala. Since that time, the Cigala family has crafted wonderful wines and since 1992, the has been run by Enrico's nine children. 

Time honored and classic methods are employed at San Giusto and although some newer enhancements are used (i.e. barriques) the overall feel of the estate is very much traditional.
 
In this article we're focusing on the estate's flagship wine; Percarlo.  Fermentation and maceration take place in enameled cement vats and lasts up to 35 days. The yeasts produced are naturally occurring.  Percarlo is then aged in French oak barriques for 20-22 months, bottled unfiltered and held in bottle for another 18 months before being released. The grapes which go into the making of Percarlo are selected by hand, bunch per bunch, from vineyards whose soil dates back millions of years.
 
~ Cement fermentation tanks in the winery at San Giusto a Rentennano ~
 
The 1999 Percarlo is a pure, focused Sangiovese. Decanted 90 minutes before dinner, the wine is a deep ruby red at the core, although toward the outlying rim you can visualize a Brunello-like copper color. The aroma of the wine is an absolute symphony and creates a masterful expression of Sangiovese.  Crushed red fruits, turned earth, tobacco and flowers lift lithly from the glass.  

~ Rock strewn Sangiovese vineyards on the San Giusto Estate ~

In the mouth, the flavors echo the aromas.  There's a fine medium bodied core of ripe, crushed berry fruit with accents from dried flower petals, anise, worn leather and firm racy spices that provide freshness.  There are still some tannins to resolve - they begin to clamp down on the finish and are most notable without food, however they are silky and not astringent in terms of perception.  This is pinnacle, pure Sangiovese from a classic house.  From the southernmost part of the Chianti Classico zone, it may appear a bit riper in 1999 than in cooler areas, but overall, a delicious wine.  93 points, about $50.


~ San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo; 1999 ~
Cin Cin!

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