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Monday, April 7, 2014

The Lady of Morellino



~ Elisabetta Geppetti ~

"This land is my choice of life, as making wine has always been my profession...."  

Since she was 20 years old, Elisabetta Geppetti, a fiery redhead with passion and youthful energy to match,  knew that she wanted to make wine at her family estate.  After a remakable 30 year career she has created one of the most significant wine estates in the Maremma and has been instrumental in bringing the recognition so deserved to this winemaking region along the Tuscan coast. 

Since 1992 she has served as President of the Morellino di Scansano Consortium; the first woman to serve as head of any Consortium in Italy.  She has earned the title of how many refer to her:  The Ambassador of Maremma.  

Elisabetta's eldest daughter Clara has a growing role within the winery, ensuring the continued success for future generations of Fattoria Le Pupille.


~ The Winery Gates ~
The heart of the Le Pupille Estate revolves around two of the greatest vineyards in Maremma; Saffredi and Poggio Valente.  The former is a small 5 hectare vineyard that was originally conceived and planted in 1987 with the help of the renowned consultant Giacomo Tachis.  The Poggio Valente vineyard was replanted in 1996 and the 14 hectares of Sangiovese planted there generate grapes that give amazingly full bodied, luscious wines. 


~ Le Pupille Cantina ~

Recently I had the opportunity to sample some new releases from Fattoria Le Pupille and the quality across the board is outstanding.  

The 2011 Morellino di Scansano  could be considered the everyday workhorse red of the region.  A blend of predominantly Sangiovese with additions of Malvasia Nera and Alicante, the wine is a deep violet color.  Wonderful aromas of ripe cherries, flowers and underbrush and plentiful and carry through to the palate which is vibrant and juicy. This is very lively and 100% vinified in stainless steel.  Medium bodied acidity with moderate tannins to match, this was perfectly paired with Rigatoni alla Norma.  A great value here at about $15 and one of the best entry level Morellino I've ever had.  88 points.  Disclosure:  This bottle was a winery provided sample.

~ A very pretty red in a less than ideal vintage ~

The next wine we enjoyed was the 2009 "Poggio Valente" Morellino di Scansano Riserva.  I've only had this wine in one other vintage, the 1997, and it was an eye opening experience then.  This current vintage is everything I remember the 1997 being and more. 
~ The Poggio Valente Vineyard ~

The 2009 is predominantly Sangiovese with a small addition of Merlot.  It's fermented in stainless steel and then refined in large barrel and tonneaux.   It's a dark blackish red in the glass.  Impenetrable.  I decanted the wine for 90 minutes before dinner and removed a slight sediment.  The aromas leap from the glass.  There's ripe crushed cherry, sweet tobacco, flowers, warmed earth and freshly ground herbs.  On the palate this is a massive, brick house of a Sangiovese.  Full bodied but silky with waves of crushed red fruits, espresso bean, autumn leaves, and pipe tobacco.  Acids and tannins are all in perfect balance.  A monstrous wine that drinks wonderfully now but will easily gain further complexity over the next 10 years if cellared.  95 points.   About $35.  Disclosure:  This bottle was a producer provided sample.

 
~ The Best Morellino di Scansano I've ever had ~
E vero!








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