New Release Rosso

The more I tasted through and enjoyed the 2009 Rossos from Montalcino, the more I realized how uniformly great the vintage was going to be.  As I interviewed and emailed with various winemakers, the more I kept hearing "wait and see how great 2010 is."

 

The 2010's are beginning to show up at retail, so I popped the cork on one that's widely available and reasonably priced.  The 2010 Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino has a pretty medium violet color.  A slightly purple hue surrounds the rim. It's very pretty.  I poured a bit from the bottle as we were making dinner and initially, the wine was closed and seemingly very lean on the palate. 

 

However, after about 30 minutes the aromatics blossomed significantly.  It's very elegant and pretty to smell with lots of pepper, raspberry and fresh flowers on the nose.  On the palate, the primary core of raspberry fruit plumped up significantly with air.  There's lots of spice on the palate as well and a pretty fresh sage note.  This is really nice and the aroma is gorgeous.   I would certainly decant future bottles for about 30 minutes.  It will definitely enhance the enjoyment.  90 points, about $18.

 

Take some patience and decant this Rosso for 30 minutes before serving

Banville & Jones Portfolio Tasting

 

On April 30th, I had the pleasure of attending the Banville & Jones Portfolio tasting in Manhattan.  Banville is a small importer of select wines and the tasting was nothing short of amazing.  Many of the wineries were represented by principals or winemakers who were eager to answer questions and share their wine. As with my other Trade Tastings, due to the nature of the event my scores are provided in ranges with more general impressions of the wines.

~ The Venue Prior to the Start of the Tasting ~

Michele Satta

Before the tasting officially began,  my friend Sally Congleton ushered me quickly to see Michele Satta.  It's hard to believe how long this affable gentlemen has been making wine given his youthful appearance. Satta cut his teeth working for Ornellaia, specifically managing the Masseto vineyard, so his skills could not have been honed any better. His wines show polish, elegance and refinement and each was delicious.  He spoke at length about the need to understand Bolgheri and how many different terroir there are within the region. The altitude, distance inland from the sea, the protection or exposure to the wind, all plays an important role in determining which varietals to plant, where to plant them, at what altitude and when to harvest. Michele presented his wines one at a time and is now grooming his son to be the next generation to carry on the family winery.  He will have a while to wait for Satta is a youthful 56.

2009 Piastraia

The 2009 Piastraia is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and Sangiovese of unspecified proportions. Michele told me that the 2009 had a higher than usual content of Merlot. The wine is inky purple and shows the power and ripeness of the vintage.  There's a solid core of black fruits and spices on the nose and palate. This is ripe and juicy. There's a wonderful dried, leafy tobacco quality to this wine that I love. 91-93 points.  About $45.

Piastraia is a Bolgheri DOC blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah, & Sangiovese

2006 Cavaliere

 

Cavaliere is Satta's prized wine.  He beams about it with pride when discussing it.  He personally selected the best vines for this wine, knowing that a pure Sangiovese is rare in Bolgheri.  In fact, that was a distinction I made when I commented about the wine not being labelled "Bolgheri DOC".   By law, wines carrying that designation cannot be 100% Sangiovese. So we are left with a humble IGT.  Cavaliere is delicious; in fact, incredibly so.  It's got a deep ruby color with aromas of ripe, deep red fruits, tobacco and sage. On the palate the wine is racy and refined. Polished, with excellent structure and persistence to the cherry fruit, herbs and pipe tobacco. Structured for aging.  92-94 points.

2006 I Castagni

 

"The Chestnuts" - a wine aptly named, as Satta explained, by the vast grove of chestnut trees that surround this vineyard.  I was surprised to learn that although Satta cares for the trees, he does not use the nuts for anything.  Yes, he says, we eat some of them - but most are turned over into the ground.  This wine is 70% Cabernet, 20% Sangiovese, and 10% Teroldego. Extensive green harvesting is carried out to insure even ripening of the remaining fruit.  The results show in the wine which is a blackish red. There are ample black fruit, plum and mint aromas, but the smokiness of the Syrah adds additional complexity the nose and palate. I asked Satta what he thought the Teroldego contributed to the blend besides color.  He told me in one word "power".  It provides an extra dimension to the backbone of the Cabernet.  It is a full bodied and tannic wine with structure typical of the vintage.  Cellar worthy.  92-94 points. 

Cavaliere (L) and I Castagni (R)

Ever the gentleman:  Michele Satta

Donnatella Cinelli Colombini

The story here is one of the more interesting tales from Italy in my recent memory. This winery, the result of a family split at Fattoria Barbi, saw Donnatella Colombini "fly away" from the family to create Brunello in her own style. This desire is portrayed on her labels by the ubiquitous white dove.  Indeed, the wines are a blend of tradition and modernity. But there is an added twist.  Every single employee who works the estate is a women.  The charming Violante Gardini, Donatella's daughter, proudly presented the wines. 

 

2009 Rosso di Montalcino

 

Deep ruby in color,  this Rosso is very nice, but falls a bit short compared to some of the others I've had from the 2009 vintage.  It's medium bodied with a solid core of berry fruit framed by spice and herbs.  Aromatically similar to the palate, there is an added touch of espresso that is very attractive.  I'd like a little more fruit here though given the vintage.  88-90 points. 

 

2007 Brunello di Montalcino

 

From two small vineyards of barely 13 hectares, this Brunello is aged in a combination of barrique and larger tonneaux for almost 3 1/2 years prior to release.  The color is as vibrant as the aromas.  Deep cherry, spice, anise and earth are present on the nose and palate.  Silky, very approachable even given the vintage, there are cake spices on the finish that linger nicely. A delicious 2007, but clearly in an approachable style.  Drink now and enjoy the wonderful fruit.  90-92 points.

 

2007 Brunello "Progetto Prime Donne"

 

Despite the production of a separate Riserva,  Violante explained that this is the estate's flagship wine.  A "council" of four women, including a British Master of Wine, meet twice a year to discuss and forge the direction of this wine.  It is the "Womens first project".   Gorgeous wine here.  Loads of structure for a 2007 - maybe the most structured Brunello from the vintage I've had.  Deep ruby color with a substantial core of berry fruit with tobacco, herb and earth character for flavors and aromas.  Full bodied and tannic with a sweet, ripe acid finish.  This is delicious wine.  I love it.  93-95 points.

 

2006 Brunello Riserva

 

Prime Donne may be the estate's flagship, but it's hard to imagine after tasting this powerful, yet elegant Riserva.  Carlo Ferrini consults on this wine which begins it's aging process in barrique, but gets racked into larger and larger barrels as it ages. I jokingly pointed out to Violante that Carlo Ferrini was not a woman.  She laughed and said "he consults from afar".  This Riserva shows all the classic traits of wonderful Sangiovese.  It's full bodied with a large core of ripe, dusty, earthy, red fruit framed by spice, anise, and warm clay.  Complex and harmonious but massively tannic and in need of some cellaring to flesh out even more complexity.  Hard to go wrong laying this away.  93-95 points.

 

Overall, a beautiful showing by this winery and one to certainly watch for.  I will especially look for the Prime Donne from a more structured vintage. I easily suspect that could be a memorable Brunello.

Fabulous line up of wines from Donnatella Cinelli Colombini

Giacomo Grimaldi

Founded in 1930 by his grandfather Giacomo,  this estate is now in the capable hands of Ferruccio Grimaldi.  Despite speaking barely any English,  Ferruccio was a charming host.  Lia Tolaini's lovely daughter acted as translator when my Italian wasn't strong enough to meet Ferruccio half way.   This was my first time trying the wines from this estate and let me just say, man have I been missing out!  Each one of these wines was seemingly better than the next.  Under Ferruccio's direction, the production of the estate has increased, but is still a relatively small 10 hectares.  Of those, 6 are dedicated to Barolo and the Nebbiolo is sourced from Barolo, Novello and Monforte.  Ferruccio is known as a perfectionist in caring for his vineyards.  He is personally on patrol, insisting upon maximum green harvesting to ensure perfectly ripened grapes and better overall quality.  He joked that he also gets "family tips" - for his Father in Law is none other than Enrico Scavino.  Still, I can't imagine Ferruccio needing much help.  These wines were a revelation for me and I am firmly on the look out for them. 

 

2011 Dolcetto d'Alba

 

From the moment I tasted this wine, I knew I was in for a treat.  Over the past few months, I've had many 2011 Dolcetto, all of which have been reviewed here.  This one is, by far, the best I've had.  It's absolutely delicious.  It's everything you want from a Dolcetto and damn near a perfect example of the varietal.  It's inky purple. It's fresh, vibrant and completely crafted in stainless steel.  The aromas are redolent of violets, intense berry, smoke, vanilla and lavender.  A joy to smell.  On the palate the sexy berry fruit is velvety with a supple texture.  Accented by smokey notes, slight vanilla, and an amazing juicy texture. This is singing.  I'd buy it by the case.  Just may be the best Dolcetto I've ever tasted.  95-97 points. 

 

The Stunning 2011 Dolcetto d'Alba from G. Grimaldi

2011 Barbera d'Alba "Pistin"

 

This vineyard has south-southwest exposure and sees plenty of sun.  The resulting wine portrays this aspect well as the ripeness of the fruit balanced the natural acidity of the Barbera grapes very well.  Fermented in 100% stainless steel, and then aged 9 additional months in steel before bottling,  this Barbera is young and vibrant with fresh fruit flavors of black cherry that are accented softly by fresh herbs.  Fairly straightforward,  but delicious nonetheless.  87-89 points.

 

2007 Barbera d'Alba "Fornaci"

 

At first blush, I just assumed this wine was also a 2011.  I was tasting it a good couple of minutes before I realized the wine was already 6 years old.  Amazing purity of flavor for a Barbera of this age.  Unlike the Pistin,  this wine is aged in barrique after fermenting in vertical rotofermenters.  Malolactic occurs in barrique and the wine is aged for 18 months in 70% new and 30%  2nd and 3rd passage barrique.  The resulting wine exhibits more complexity than it's sibling as a result and was more interesting to taste.  The deep ruby black color gives way to red fruit aromas with notes of spice, herbs, and tobacco.  There's some sweet oak spice on the palate but it does not dominate; it accents the fruit beautifully. This is delicious and made in smaller quantity than Pistin; 3,500 bottles compared to Pistin's 10,000.  What's more, this wine hasn't even begun to enter any kind of secondary aging stage. It's vibrant, fresh and delicious.  90-92 points.

Pair of Barbera from Grimaldi

 

It was then on to the Baroli........

 

2008 Barolo

 

Although not tasted in time to be included in my 2008 Barolo Tasting Report, this wine was another delicious example of the vintage.  After being fermented in barrique, the wine is then aged 50% in barrique and 50% in large cask. Once blended, the wine sits in large stainless steel tanks for 8 months before bottling.  Pretty ruby color with dark garnet reflections. The wood treatment of this wine is balanced so well.  As Ferruccio pointed out, it's "balance before barrique" when he crafts his wines.  We discussed the usage of various size casks when it comes to treating Nebbiolo and he was adamant that the fruit must be in the forefront.  That he, like Scavino, will always seek to accent his wines and never dominate them with wood.  He succeeded with this wine.  The aromas are classico barolo.  Deep red cherry is accented by spice, mocha, earth, anise and fennel.  On the palate the wine is ripe, richly concentrated - with vibrant red cherry flavors that add licorice, herbs and mushrooms.  Good length and persistence.  Very fine indeed.  91-93 points. 

 

2007 Barolo "Sotto di Castello"

 

From the Sotto di Castello vineyard in Novello comes this delicious Barolo.  Aged in completely in barrique for 2 years, 60% of which are new and the balance 2nd and 3rd passage, this Barolo is the most modern of the triumvirate. Dark red in color with aromas of cherry, coffee and sage - this isn't going to be the purists cup of tea.  That being said,  the quality is undeniable.  The palate is rich and polished - lavishly oaked - the presence of the mocha and toast are evident behind the dried herb and fruit driven character of the wine.  My least favorite of the three.  90-92 points

 

2007 Barolo "Le Coste"

 

There was a little bit of confusion between this "Le Coste" and the Parusso bottling "Le Coste - Mosconi".   I was trying to determine if the vineyard source was the same. Some Mosconi's I've had have been outstanding.  After some back and forth, we determined that the vineyard is not the same.  However, the style of the wine is big, powerful and muscular, ala Monforte.  This Barolo is blackish red with aromas of red and black cherry, smoked meat, anise and spice. Although given the same aging regimen as the Sotto di Castello, this wine isn't showing nearly the oak character that the former displays.  On the palate, the wine is full bodied, juicy-ripe and very long.  A laser of pure berry fruit seems surrounded by dusty licorice and earth notes.  This is masculine, with lots of structure and will easily age 10+ years.  Wonderful.  93-95 points. 

The Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo Trio

 

After tasting Grimaldi,  I pivoted 90 degrees to his neighboring table, Paolo Scavino, where principal Riccardo Sgarra was representing the winery.

Paolo Scavino

 

Tasting these wines was a pure privilege.   I was able to sample each Barolo produced by this legendary winemaker and in addition to the wines reported on as part of my 2008 Barolo Report, a few cellar gems were also poured by Riccardo.

The display table at Scavino.  If only I'd had a backpack!

2008 Barolo

 

This is Scavino's "classic" Barolo, blended from various Scavino vineyard holdings. There is nothing "entry level" about this wine. Dark ruby red in color, this Barolo exudes stature. Lovely floral, spice, cherry and rosemary aromas combine to form a delicately woven bouquet. On the palate, the wine is juicy and full bodied, with a solid core of cherry fruit framed with spices, leather and earth. True to its roots this is a delicious wine that will age effortlessly for a decade or more.  91-93 points.

 

2008 Barolo "Bricco Ambrogio"

 

Riccardo explained that along with it's "sister", Monvigliero, this is one of Scavino's more feminine Barolo.  Pretty, delicate aromas abound: freshly picked flowers, dried herbs, lavender and red fruits are gorgeous. Very refined on the palate.  Graceful.  Silky, with wonderful precision. Intense cherry flavors are framed by spice, lavender and licorice.  92-94 points.

2008 Barolo "Monvigliero"

Riccardo called this the sister wine to the "Bricco Ambrogio" and opined that if  Monvigliero is the Queen then Ambrogio is the King.  Still, both wines are elegant and very feminine. Delicately powerful, is how Riccardo described the wines.  In the glass, it's a dark ruby with violet reflections. The aromas are very perfumed. Flowers, berries and tobacco combine harmoniously.  There's an intense laser of cherry fruit that rides on a road of chalk and minerals. So dusty, so fine. I like this slightly better than the Ambrogio simply for it's tactile sensations.  93-95 points.

2008 Barolo "Cannubi"

 

A Cru that needs no introduction.  This wine flexes muscles the others don't have. It's a dark purple-red in the glass and the nose is very complex.  Cherries, flowers, spices and mushrooms are woven together wonderfully. On the palate, the heft of this vineyard is prominently displayed with the crushed red berries, cigar tobacco, dried herbs and fennel taking center stage.  It needs cellaring, but this one is where it's at for me.  Amazing stuff.  94-96 points.

 

Brawn & Power is Cannubi

 

2008 Barolo "Carobric"

 

Riccardo explained that this wine is a blend of three vineyards that come together not only to form the wine; but to create the acronym that is it's name: Cannubi - Rocche - Bric del Fiasc.  The tannic structure to the wine is moderated well and the fruit comes to the fore on the nose and palate. Cherries, spice, dusty minerals and flowers are very pretty indeed.  This wine is more delicate than I suspected, but it's delicious.  90-92 points.

2008 Barolo "Bric del Fiasc"

 

Riccardo told me that this was Scavino's most muscular, masculine Barolo. I asked him where it fit in with Cannubi and he said: "Bric del Fiasc is the King, Cannubi is the Queen." The Bric del Fiasc is indeed powerful. A brawny behemoth of a Nebbiolo that requires decanting or cellar time or both.  There's a huge core of red berry fruit with notes of mineral and flowers on the nose and palate. The structure of the wine is significant and there's plenty of development lurking underneath. There's pretty fennel notes on the finish.  94-96 points.

2000 Barolo "Carobric"

With the current release wines behind us, Riccardo began pouring a few mature wines to give the tasters an idea of what may be around the corner for some of these Barolo.  The 2000 Carobric is maturing wonderfully. After 10+ years, the tannins present in the 2008 have melted away significantly in this vintage.  Deep cherry flavors are laced with earth, flowers, tobacco and spice. It appears much more masculine than it's younger sibling would suggest.  Ripe sweet fruit make for a long lingering finish. With plenty of life ahead, you can enjoy this now or continue to cellar it.  92-95 points.

2000 Carobric by Paolo Scavino

2005 Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata Riserva

 

It's hard to imagine a Barolo eclipsing the other wines in Scavino's stable, but it's equally hard to imagine someone denying the stupendous nature of this ethereal nectar.  Riccardo was pouring this from decanter.  It had been open a few hours in advance of my tasting. This wine has it all.  Power. Elegance. Refinement. Complexity. Persistence. Purity. Precision. Everything about it is a notch above.  The fruit is richer, the complexities easier to spot.  The finish longer. Rich cherry and berry flavors are accented with a myriad of tones: earth, tar, roses, anise, fennel, sage, mushroom and leaves.  Flavors follow the nose and are full bodied with a silky, dusty mouthfeel.  This may be a lifetime great experience as the wine ages further.  It still has tannins to shed.  Aged one year in barrique, 2 years in botti grande and 2 years in bottle prior to release.  95-99 points.

Masterful Barolo from 70+ year old vines

Lamborghini

Ferrucio Lamborghini came back to his humble Umbrian farming roots after retiring from his luxury automobile company.  He hired Riccardo Cotarella as his winemaker and purchased land south of Lake Trasimeno very near the border with Tuscany and only a few kilometers from Cortona.  His charming wife presented the wines.

 

2007 Torami

 

This is the newest wine in the Lamborghini stable having first been produced in 2003.  Torami is 100% Montepulciano that is stainless steel fermented and then aged for up to 10 months in French barrique.  Prior to release, the wine is aged an additional 6 months in bottle.  A pretty violet color, there are ample aromas of black fruits, with spice and mineral character. On the palate the wine is medium bodied, with nice structure and good length. Reminds me of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.  A good wine that can be used as a rosso della casa.  86-88 points.

 

2006 Campoleone

 

Campoleone is the estate's flagship.  A blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Merlot, the wine is a perennial Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri.  Vinified separately, fermented and aged in French barrique, the varietals aren't blended until the very end of the process.  Subsequently, they spend 6 months in bottle prior to release. 

 

I've had Campoleone many times in the past and have always loved the marriage of Sangiovese and Merlot.  It's a racy red with a pretty purple color.  The wine may need some additional cellaring to settle.  I found the 2006 to be slightly disjointed with flavors and aromas of dark fruits with herbs, leather and earth.  It was more "funky" than I recollect from past vintages.  Give it some time in bottle.  I'm betting on the vineyard and the winemaker here.  90-92 points.

Lamborghini:  Torami and Campoleone

Tolaini

We're very familiar with Tolaini's wines here at TuscanVines,  but to borrow from a great movie: "If you pour it, we will taste".   Tolaini is continually pushing for more and more quality to the grapes that ultimately end up in their wine.  Not one, but two green harvests ensure that the vineyards generate only the best raw materials for winemaker Diego Bonato and Consultant Michel Rolland to craft into fine Tuscan reds. 

 

2008 Al Passo

 

Al Passo is 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot.  I've reported on this wine many times before in both the 2007 and 2008 vintages and it continues to be delicious and represent excellent value.   The name comes from the "pass" in the forest at the highest point of the Montebello vineyard.  The 2008 displays a pretty violet color and aromas of forest floor, earth, cherry and spices carry through on the palate.  While not as rich as the 2007, it is seemingly more lively. Brighter. A delicious marriage of the varietals this is very affordable.  89-91 points.

 

2008 Valdisanti

 

A blend of 75% Cabernet, 5% Cab. Franc and 20% Sangiovese, Valdisanti comes from the Montebello and San Giovanni vineyards on the estate. Whole berry fermentation takes place in both French oak and stainless steel before the wine is aged for 16 months in barrique.  (70% new)  Again, this isn't as rich or opulent as the 2009 tasted at Gambero Rosso, but this is a full bodied Cabernet with aromas and flavors of cassis, mint, black fruit and french oak spice.  Has the structure to age over the next 10 years, but the 2009 is a better bet for aging beyond that.  Very well done in the tougher vintage. 90-92 points.

 

2008 Picconero

 

This is the Tolaini's flagship, garnering the best grapes from the estate.  Green harvesting and strict selection take place before Picconero is fermented as whole berries in French oak.  The resulting wine is aged in barrique for 18 months and then in bottle an additional 12 before release. Merlot centric, the 2008 is a blend of 65% Merlot, 30% Cabernet and 5% Petit Verdot.  Black in the glass.  Wonderful aromas of mint, black fruits, licorice, spice and earth.  Flavors follow the nose with class, persistence and elegance. This is huge. Almost as big as the 2009, which is a Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri.  Delicious and velvety now, but certainly will improve with cellaring.  93-95 points.

The Tolaini Triumvirate

Zyme

The name of this whimsical winery derives from the ancient Greek word for yeast.  Zyme was founded in 2003 in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico zone. Winemaker and owner Celestino Gaspari has some unique experience behind him. Before becoming his son in law, Gaspari worked 11 harvests with the legendary Giuseppe Quintarelli.  He learned every facet he could during those 11 years and after becoming a respected vigneron consultant, set out on his own project.  The wines are admittedly avant garde, very rich and boisterous and at times, verging on over the top.  This is Celestino's personality and as I tasted his wines,  I don't think he stopped smiling and laughing the entire time.  The Veneto version of Giampaolo Tabarrini!  He is a young, up and coming winemaker to keep your eye on!  And so it goes....

 

2006 Harlequin

 

As intriguing as it is unique.  Harlequin is comprised from no less than 15 different grape varieties, 11 red and 4 white.  The blends vary widely from vintage to vintage.  Dense ruby to purple in color with rich aromas of black fruits, figs, spice, savor herbs and oriental spices.  Long and rich on the palate, this 15% alc. comes off as a bruiser with rich, jammy fruit and all sorts of tertiary flavors that leave the taster grappling for a descriptor.  This is bone dry and not overdone but it needs a hearty osso bucco for sure.  92-94 points.

15 Different Grapes Comprise "Harlequin"

 

2006 Kairos

 

You don't have enough fingers to count the grapes in this wine.  No less than 17! varietals combine to form Kairos - with three being white.  I have the listing on my Tech-Sheets, but I'm not going to include them here because the percentages aren't specified.  Deep purple in the glass with long viscous legs.  Wild berries, blackberry preserves, clove, spice and cocoa are redolent on the nose. Flavors follow the aromas and add licorice and fennel.  The acidity and balance are there to provide freshness to this full bodied red. Don't let the whimsical nature of the label or blend fool you.  This is serious wine and to me, the most broadly food friendly of all the Zyme wines tasted.  I really enjoyed it and it was a hit with many of the tasters present.  91-93 points.

 

2006 Amarone Classico

 

A mere 5 varietals used here in this traditional blend.  The 2006 is 30% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 5% Croatina and 5% Oseleta.  The vines are up to 70 years of age.  In the glass the wine is a deep blackish red with huge, inky legs.  The richness of the fruit is evident. Aromas of Christmas cake, bourbon, plum and black cherry combine nicely and carry over to the nose.  Despite almost 16% alc.  this is balanced but clearly a wine for nuts, aged/funky cheese with a side of fireplace.  92-94 points.

Zyme Amarone at Left.  Kairos at Right.

As I thanked him for the eye opening tasting and was about to move on,  Celestino grabs me on the arm laughing and says, "You can't go yet. You haven't tasted the Big Daddy!"   I could not possibly fathom what wine might reach the level of "Big Daddy-ness"  but for certain, I found out. 

 

2001 Amarone Classico Riserva

 

Ridiculous concentration.  A bottle almost the size of a magnum but claiming to be 750ml.  This is a blend of  40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella, 5% Croatina and 10% Oseleta.  So the main difference from the Amarone being that the Rondinella is cut in half and the prior two varietals beefed up.  It's black.  It's a mammoth wine filled with aromas of blackberry preserve, dried plums, black cherry, figs, spices, cloves, fruit cake and brandy.  It's gargantuan on the palate with teeth staining richness to the fruit. 16% alc. from 50+ year old vines.  This has Quintarelli all over it. Fans of his will go nuts for this wine.  And again, that's what you need here:  Nuts, Gorgonzola (which was on hand to taste) and even dried fruit or bitter chocolate would work.  I'd serve this with cheese in place of dessert.  93-95 points. 

Amarone Riserva 2001

Sally Congleton of Banville & Jones took me over to try the refreshing new releases from the respected Franciacorta producer Ca' del Bosco.  Franciacorta is in Lombardia and is focused on excellence at all levels of production.  Stefano Capelli, the young energetic winemaker was proudly pouring the yet to be released 2008 "Vintage Collection".  If you like sparkling wine and Champagne, put this producer on your radar quickly.  These wines are excellent. 

 

2008 Vintage Brut

 

From 30 year old vines comes this cuvee of 55% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Nero, and 15% Pinot Bianco.  Stefano preferred to eskew flutes and instead poured into larger white wine glasses to allow the aromas to show themselves.  Pale golden in color, this has delicate aromas and flavors of apples and roses.  The Pinot Nero lends body, but this is crisp and refreshing.  12.5% alc.   90-92 points. 

 

2008 Vintage Dosage Zero

 

From slightly younger vines,  this blend is 65% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Nero, and 13% Pinot Bianco.  The "Dosage Zero" on the label indicates that at disgorgement there is no added dosage of sulphites.  This is owing to Ca' del Bosco's patented technology that allows for disgorgement in the complete absence of oxygen.  The resulting wines are livlier and fresher with increased capacity to age.  This cuvee is brilliant gold with appealing aromas of apple, honey, sage and flowers.  On the palate this is more full bodied than the Brut and the finely textured, lively bubbles seem intricately woven into the body of the wine.  This is absolutely delicious.  I can imagine it alongside seared scallops in buerre blanc. 92-94 points. 

 

2008 Vintage Saten

 

This cuvee us the most steely.  Comprised of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Bianco, this has notes of citrus, apple, lemon and minerals galore.  The largest dose of Chardonnay is notable and adds a creamy body to the overall feel of the wine.  That's not to say the wine isn't crisp; it is - but the sensation is different.  Less sugar is added at disgorgement compared to the other two wines which makes this wine slightly more austere.  90-92 points.

The Vintage Collection 2008 from Ca' del Bosco

Overall, I was greatly impressed by the quality of the wines in the Banville & Jones Portfolio.  There were many other wines that I simply did not have the time to taste.  When the chance presents itself again, I will focus my priorities accordingly.  In the meantime, I hope you enjoyed this report!

Salute!

 

 

Brunello Le Lucere

After a long day of gardening & mulching, there was a serious need for simple food and great wine.  With a series of "small plates" we opened the 2004 San Filippo Brunello "Le Lucere".

 

This Brunello has aged gracefully since my last review about one year ago.  Per my past recollection, the wine was decanted for about 60 minutes before dinner.  The plates consisted of escarole and beans with pancetta, grilled skirt steak with magi and chives, and a wonderful salad from the garden; recipe below. 

 

The wine's aroma is complex but yet, slightly subtle. Even with the decanting, the wine needed serious swirlitude® to coax the aromas. This blackish red Sangiovese Grosso displays aromas of crushed berries, leather, flowers and cake spices. On the palate, the fruit is full bodied and viscous, with ample leather, chalky dust, berry and pepper flavors. This tasting is more earthy than previous visitations with this wine.  At this stage, I think another 2-3 years in the cellar will be beneficial. I suspect the aromatics will be more intense after some additional aging.  Delicious, but capable of more I think.  91 points.  About $42.

 

Single Vineyard Brunello.  Look at the color on this baby!

 

 

With the garden beginning to take shape, I thought I'd share a quick recipe for an amazing salad we had last night.  This was so fresh and light, especially after being outside most of the day.

 

Insalata con Bocconcini

 

1 large European Cucumber

3 vine ripe tomatoes

1/2 sweet vidalia onion

1 package bocconcini (8 oz)

Handful fresh chive

Handful fresh basil

 

Halve the bocconcini, slice the tomato into chunks and quarter the cucumber.  Slice the onion small/think and dice the herbs.  Toss in a decorative salad bowl.  Dress with extra virgin olive oil, white wine vinegar, salt, pepper, and crushed red pepper to taste.  It doesn't get much easier than this and it's so fresh and vibrant. 

Just before adding the hebs.  Basil is the smell of summer!

Allora.....

SideTrip: Signature Wine

With a trip to Napa and Sonoma coming up for TuscanVines,  I decided to "prime" myself last night and opened a recent release from the respected Cabernet producer, Chappellet. 

 

Chappellet is one of my favorite producers from Napa. Their "Signature" Cabernet often overperforms for the price point and is widely available. Coincidentally, it's been almost a year since I tried the 2009 version of this very wine, and while the 2010 is delicious, it doesn't quite boast the same level of ripeness, richness or complexity that it's older sibling possesses.

 

The 2010 Chappellet Signature Cabernet is a deep, blackish purple in the glass. I decanted the wine for about 30 minutes just to aerate it, and was surprised to remove a slight sediment.  The aroma boasts classic Napa scents:  Black fruits mix with cedar, spices, anise and new leather.  On the palate, the wine is full bodied with a distinctive core of dusty black fruit framed by lots of shaley minerals, slight mocha and spice. It's leaner than one might expect and it's loaded with very chewy tannins.  This wine needs some time in the cellar to flesh out a little. With a hunk of aged gouda, the wine showed very well, but without food, it wasn't as interesting.  As wine should be, keep this one on the dinner table.  90 points, about $40.

 

~ Chappellet 2010:  76% Cabernet, 14% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot ~

The next report on Napa Cabernet will come from Napa itself!  It's RoadTrip® time and we've got some interesting feature articles planned in the coming weeks.  Salute!

Oddero

Does Barbera pair well with fish? 

 

A few weeks ago, I interviewed Cristina Oddero who was nothing short of fabulous given her passion and enthusiasm for her estate's history.  As it turns out, she was slightly less fabulous than the subject of today's review. 

 

No red wine with fish right? 

 

Wrong.  I am a firm believer in the benchmark of "drink what you like".  Most of the time this will work and recipes can be tweaked to make them more wine friendly.  Last night I had some gorgeous, thick salmon filets that I marinated and grilled. When topped with sauteed wild mushrooms, the pairing was amazing.  Read on for the review and the recipe.

 

The 2010 Oddero Barbera d'Alba is a gorgeous deep ruby in the glass.  Out of the cellar, it was initially a little too cold but as it warmed, the aromatics blossomed.  This is filled with bright cherry, floral, spice and clean earth aromas. On the palate, the wine's acidity is tamed well.  That's always been a slight contention of mine, though Barbera from Alba seem to be more restrained in this regard. This version is balanced perfectly. There's a gorgeous core of ripe cherry fruit, with an intense black pepper streak that is accented by a floral note and licorice/anise. Good length with moderate tannins that provide nice structure. This is so delicious right now, in a classic style.   Great value too.

 

The fatty oils in the fish brought out the fruit in the wine and the mushrooms accented the earthy components nicely.  Definitely not what you'd see in a wine pairing 101 book, but then again,  I'm unconventional!  91 points, about $14.

~ Gorgeous 2010 Barbera d'Alba from Oddero.  Great value around $14 ~

So what of this fish?  We love salmon, but I was getting tired of searing it on the cooktop. These pieces were very thick, so rather than smoke the entire kitchen, I figured they'd hold up on a well oiled grill.  I marinated them for about 30 minutes, turning them over half way through.  Here's the recipe. 

 

Teriyaki Glazed Salmon

 

1/3 cup maple syrup

1/2 cup teriyaki sauce

2 cloves garlic, minced finely

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Large handful of diced chives

Salt & Pepper to taste

 

Whisk all ingredients together.  Salt & Pepper the fish and lay skin side down in a glass pan. Pour the marinade over the fish and allow to soak for 15 minutes.  Then turn the fish over and marinate 15 minutes more.  The longer you marinate the fish, the stronger the flavors will be.  30 minutes allows for a nice flavor that isn't overpowering, especially with the red wine. 

 

Spray the grill with Pam just before placing the fish skin side down first.  Turn after about 4 minutes.  After about 2 minutes on the flesh side, rotate the fish 45 degrees to get your grill marks.  Top with sauteed mushrooms. The char from the grill, along with the woody notes from the mushrooms really played well with the wine. The marinade contributes the sort of savory flavor that you can't quite identify.  Try it!

Teriyaki Glazed Salmon with Garlic & Chives

Cin Cin!

CellarNote: Shining Solaia

This past March, I tasted the 1995 Solaia and was somewhat underwhelmed given the pedigree of the vineyard and the wine.  I started to wonder if the wine's style simply wasn't evolving into something I enjoy. With a noticeable sigh of relief, I can say that isn't the case with yesterday's Mother's Day tasting of the 2001.

 

The 2001 Antinori Solaia is the best version of this wine I've had in recent memory.   In the glass, the color is a dark, vibrant purple with pretty violet reflections.   The aromas are a wonderful combination of new world ripeness and old world terroir.  Ripe plums and black fruits dominate the nose, but there's plenty of character here too. The fruit is accented by cedar, mineral, mint, and roasted coffee.  It's reminiscent of classy First Growth Bordeaux; ala Mouton.  On the palate, the wine is full bodied and very silky.  Refined and elegant with ripe, rich flavors of black fruits with sweet pipe tobacco, coffee, minerals and chalky dust.  Moderately tannic, but nothing that wasn't tamed by the NY Strip steaks.  Can easily be enjoyed now but in no danger of fading.  This single vineyard wine is 80% Cabernet and 20% Sangiovese.  95 points, about $80 upon release.

 

Solaia: Sourced from Chianti Classico, the wine is 80% Cabernet & 20% Sangiovese

A Tuscan Dinner

After a recent flurry of Barolo tastings, I was happy to comply when asked to host a Tuscan themed dinner for some out of town guests.  I decided to make two simple risotto dishes: Sweet Sausage and Spring Pea along with wild mushroom risotto.  The occasion seemed right to try some newly released Tuscans.

~ The Tuscan Line Up ~

With assorted antipasti:  Aged Gouda, olives, reggiano, crusty bread, mortadella and prosciutto we started with the newly released 2010 Felsina Chianti Classico.   Similar to the 2009 there is nothing to dislike about this wine.  If you can't like this, then you are probably averse to Sangiovese in general.  It's a gorgeous violet red color with an aroma of crushed berries, new leather, flowers and dried herbs.  On the palate, the wine complements the nose with beautiful fresh acidity and lovely persistence.  For $20, it leaves you wanting nothing, except more.  91 points.

~ A Worthy Successor to the Fabulous 2009 ~

The Felsina was drained so quickly that we opened the next wine with the antipasto as well.  What can I say about the 2010 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano?  Ho hum...another great effort by one of the regions best producers. The 2010 sports a new classic label, but it's the same great wine inside.   Bright ruby red with violet reflections, the nose is redolent with flowers, berries, sweet pipe tobacco and menthol.  On the palate, the wine is elegant and refined with exceptional balance. Medium to full bodied cherry fruit displays a little smoke along with the leather and tobacco notes. There's slightly more weight here than the Felsina Chianti but the difference is negligible.  Finely grained tannins keep this juicy and fresh.  Drink over the next 5 years.  91 points, about $22.

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

With the risotto, we moved to the table and served the final three wines with the meal.  I was so caught up with the company that I failed to take a single picture of the food! I'll replicate the risottos for future posts. 

The next wine was the 2009 Piaggia Carmignano "Il Sasso".   Winemaker Emiliano Falsini has crafted a gorgeous Carmignano that is a worthy successor to the 2008.  This is my second tasting of the 2009, both of which are entries on the TuscanVines Shopping List.  This wine has improved greatly since I last tasted it.  Dark purple in the glass with notes of cedar, plum, berry, leather and coffee. It's gorgeous to smell and taste. The intensity of this wine was noticeable after the first two - it raised several eye brows.  On the palate the wine is full bodied and rich with ripe flavors of berries, mint, leather, tobacco and dried herbs. This is a wonderful marriage between Sangiovese and Cabernet - the required blend for the Carmignano DOCG.  93 points, about $24. 

~ The 2009 IL Sasso Carmignano from Piaggia ~

Next up was the newly released 2010 Sette Ponti Crognolo.  I've been a fan of Sette Ponti - "Seven Bridges" named after the amount of bridges one must cross to reach the winery - for a long time.  That attraction has laid mostly at the feet of the estate's Super Tuscan "Oreno", but this tasting changed that a bit. 

 

Crognolo gets its name from a wild bush that grows abundantly on the Sette Ponti estate called the "Cornus".   The wine is almost 100% Sangiovese with a small unspecified percentage of Merlot and Cabernet.   It's dark violet to purple in the glass with persistent aromas of berries, mint, leather, fresh flowers and eucalyptus.  In the mouth the wine is balanced and elegant, with polish. It's certainly a more modern style and the barrique exposure is noted but not unbalanced.  Full bodied flavors of coffee, berry, tobacco and menthol are long and seductive.  This wine was especially good with the wild mushroom risotto.  Very sexy.  92 points, about $23. 

 

~ Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo ~

 

We began to ratchet things up.  The 2007 Renieri Brunello di Montalcino was uncorked next to rave reviews.  I had never had the Brunello from this estate, but I can easily say it will not be the final time I do.  This is delicious.  In the glass the wine is a violet purple color with pretty reflections and legs. It's everything you could want in a Sangiovese. The aroma is full of freshly cut flowers, Tuscan clay, mushroom, espresso and laser like fresh wild berries. On the palate the wine tastes of the bush.  Freshly picked wild berries, lavendar, perfume, and fresh herbs are pronounced.  This is so fresh and vivid and displays a character more akin to 2006 than the 2007 vintage.  An eye opening wine and a great value.  95 points, about $40.

~ The Bacci Family's Renieri Brunello di Montalcino ~

Finally, with some remaining cheese and risotto, we opened a cellared gem.  The 1997 Castello di Brolio "Casalferro" was tasted from magnum.  This pure Sangiovese was utterly mind blowing.  The elegance and stature of this wine was remarkable.  In the glass the wine is black.  Maybe it's blackish red, but that's picking nits.  It's throwing an incredible sediment that was carefully avoided, but we did not decant this.  The intense aromas are hallmark Sangiovese.  Rich crushed berry, dried flowers, espresso, spice, leather, turned earth and herbs are redolent.  On the palate the wine is pure silk. The tannins are fully resolved.  Flavors of berry, wild cherry, mushrooms and Tuscan clay are elegant and full bodied yet weightless on the palate. This is utterly gorgeous.  96 points, likely about $40 upon release. Sadly, as I've reviewed previously, they have changed the style of this wine and recent vintages seem way overoaked to me.  This was my final drop of Casalferro and it was a fitting farewell. 

~ Magnum ~

Allora......

Tasting Report: 2008 Barolo

Vineyards in Barolo

Over the past several weeks, we have been tasting selected 2008 Barolos in order to provide this comprehensive tasting report.  As TuscanVines always insures, all wines included were tasted with a variety of foods.  All wines were decanted at least 45 minutes in advance of tasting in order to allow the wines to breath and remove any sediment.   Off we go.....

Parusso Barolo "Mariondino"

From vineyards in Castiglione Falleto, this is a blockbuster of a Barolo.  Readers who desire the more traditional approach to Nebbiolo will likely not be enchanted by this wine, but if you appreciate all styles, this one is hard to resist.  Deep garnet to purple in the glass, the aromas are intense with red fruits, flowers, mint and herbs.  On the palate, this rich wine is full bodied, opulent and finely textured with cherry, mint, leather and herbs.  The tannins are balanced so well with the massive core of fruit that this is approachable today.  Paired perfectly with Bistecca Fiorentina.  92 points. 

Paolo Scavino Barolo

This is Scavino's "classic" Barolo, blended from various Scavino vineyard holdings.   There is nothing "entry level" about this wine. Dark ruby red in color, this Barolo exudes stature.  Lovely floral, spice, cherry and rosemary aromas combine to form a delicately woven bouquet.  On the palate, the wine is juicy and full bodied, with a solid core of cherry fruit framed with spices, leather and earth. True to its roots this is a delicious wine that will age effortlessly for a decade or more. Recent tastings of the 1998 and 2001 show the potential of this label.  Also paired very well with Bistecca Fiorentina.  93 points.

~ Parsusso Mariondino & Paolo Scavino Barolo ~

Marchesi di Barolo "Sarmassa"

Nothing about this wine has changed since I last tasted it at the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri event.  For a wine this young, the complex aromatics are absolutely amazing. The color is a deep red cherry. Roses, fennel, licorice, and berries explode  from the glass.  This  has power and elegance all at once.  There's a massive core of berry fruit that is accented by spices and floral flavors. It's breathtaking. Aged for 2 years in Slavonian cask and then partly in used French barrique before a final year in bottle.  Delicious with sausage & fennel stuffed mushrooms.  97 points. 

~ Marchesi di Barolo "Sarmassa" ~

Pairing with Sarmassa: Mushrooms stuffed with Sausage, fennel, celery, garlic, bread crumbs cheese and egg.

Brezza Barolo "Bricco Sarmassa"

Bricco is Piedmontese for ridge and typically denotes the best plots within a vineyard.  The Sarmassa vineyard lies opposite the famed Cannubi,  just over the crest of the hill that separates the two.  The Brezza Sarmassa is mouth watering.  While not as boisterous as its sibling from Marchesi di Barolo, this burgundy colored red, with amber highlights throughout stikes a harmony of ripe cherry fruit, fennel, cured meat and flowers on the nose. Meatier, with more pronounced tannin, the core of cherry fruit is accented by a juicy herbal freshness that gives the sensation of a mouth watering complexity.  More traditional, the structure on this wine indicates that aging will be rewarded, if not required.  93 points.

Paolo Scavino Barolo "Bricco Ambrogio"

Along with it's "sister" Barolo,  Monvigliero, this is one of Scavino's more feminine Barolo.  Indeed, the grace and class in this bottle is very evident.  The taster is greeted by a pretty, ruby colored wine - a deep color clear to the rim.  Pretty, delicate aromas abound:  freshly picked flowers, dried herbs, lavendar and red fruits are simply gorgeous. On the palate the wine is so refined. Silky, with wonderful precision. Intense cherry flavors are framed by spice, sage, lavendar and licorice.  This is irresistible.  94 points.

Marcarini Barolo "La Serra"

This one the purists will love.  Marcarini is a traditional producer of classic wines that reflect their Piedmont terroir with honesty and grace. This is no exception.  The La Serra bottling is known for it's elegant, feminine approach to Nebbiolo and I love it.  In the glass, this is a deep ruby color, but you can already see the orangeing at the rim.  The aroma is lovely, with dried flowers, cured meats, mushroooms and red fruits.  Flavors follow the nose with the tertiary aspects of the wine almost as prominent as the spicy cherry fruit.  Feminine and elegant with only moderate tannins. This Barolo is drinking well now but should cellar easily for 10-12 years.  92 points

Brezza Bricco Sarmassa, Scavino Bricco Ambrogio, & Marcarini La Serra.  All three wines were delicious with truffle accented Lobster Risotto & Grilled Karobuta Pork Chops

Parusso Barolo "Le Coste - Mosconi"

Muscle and Power.  That's Monforte and that's Mosconi.  This bottling from Parusso is deep garnet red in color with purple reflections.  Immediately you are struck by the intense perfume from the spices, menthol, cherry and tar aromas. This is massive Barolo.  The power from Monforte is upfront and personal.  Huge core of cherry fruit, with leather, meat, flowers and menthol.  Delicious - but the tannins clamp down significantly on the finish. Although a lush, rich wine, I do believe this will be better with 5-8 years cellaring.  94 points.

Parusso Mosconi - The smoked meats, bread & cheese tamed this wine's tannins a little. Cellar it!

Conterno-Fantino Barolo "Mosconi"

I first tasted this at the Slow Wine VinItaly event.  I'm happy to see, since I did put this in my own cellar, that the wine showed exactly as it had there.  Like the Parusso before it, this is everything Monforte Barolo is about. Muscular, and powerful, the aromatics are slightly reserved but vigorous swirling and decanting brings out flowers, berries, and faint earthy notes.  The core of the wine is rich and full bodied with fruit and fennel.  This is bigger than the Parusso and needs cellar time. I won't touch remaining bottles for 5-8 years more, but this is gorgeous. 96 points.

Conterno Fantino Barolo "Vigna del Gris"

This is  Conterno Fantino's most approachable Barolo.  The Southeast facing Gris vineyard is young. On average, the vines are only about 12 years old which permits the early accessability. The wine is classic ruby red, with a wonderful aroma of flowers, cherries and spices. It's very elegant, very feminine. It's charming to drink already with moderate tannins and pleasing acidity.  Very good, but not great. Along the lines of a heavy Nebbiolo d'Alba.  90 points.

~ Conterno Fantino Barolo Mosconi - Monforte d'Alba ~

~ Conterno Fantino:  Mosconi at Left, Vigna del Gris at Right ~

Parusso Barolo "Bussia"

Given the other Parusso bottlings, I was expecting this to be a brawny, rich, lush monster of a wine, but it surprised me.  The color is a deep violet with pretty, bright reflections.  The aromas are subtle at first in this young Nebbiolo, but slowly open to reveal flowers, dried herbs and crushed red berries.  In the mouth, the wine was slightly restrained, leaner at first. But as it sat in the decanter, it added significant weight and roundness to the bold cherry flavors.  There's sweet tobacco, menthol and mint on the finish of this full bodied and muscular red.  If you try this now, decant it for an hour. Otherwise, this goes into the cellar for 3-5 years.  93 points.

Parusso Barolo Bussia:  Tasted with Pasta con Pancetta, Broccoli Rabe with White Beans, Cheese & Bread

Paolo Scavino Barolo "Monvigliero"

The sister wine to the "Bricco Ambrogio",  Monvigliero is the Queen to Ambrogio's King.  The vineyard sits slightly farther north than many within the Barolo zone and the nature of the soil lends an intense mineral characteristic to this Nebbiolo that is very attractive.  In the glass, it's a dark ruby with violet reflections.  The aromas are elegant, graceful and very perfumed.  Flowers, berries and tobacco combine harmoniously.  It's on the palate where the wine sets itself apart.  There's an intense laser of cherry fruit that rides on a road of chalk and minerals.  So dusty, so fine. It's spreads gracefully on the palate and leads to a fennel and rosemary finish.  It's what a friend called "eminently drinkable".  94 points.

~ The elegant and graceful Barolo Monvigliero from Paolo Scavino ~

Paolo Scavino Barolo "Cannubi"

This wine was a major shift in style from the Scavino wines mentioned above. The balance and elegance of the Scavino style is evident, but this wine flexes muscles the others don't have.  It's a dark purple-red in the glass and the nose is quite complex after being decanted for over an hour.  Cherries, flowers, spice and a slight mushroom element are woven together wonderfully.  On the palate, the heft of this vineyard is prominently displayed with the crushed red berries, cigar tobacco, dried herbs and fennel taking center stage.  Ripe but substantial tannins require some patience to resolve. With the grilled leg of lamb we had, this wine's tannins were tamed.  But it needs that sort of help right now, or 5-10 years in the cellar. Delicious.  95 points.

~ Paolo Scavino Barolo from the Legendary Cannubi Vineyard ~

Marcarini Barolo "Brunate"

Stylistically,  the total opposite of it's sibling from La Serra.  Brunate is known for producing massive, masculine wines and this one is no exception.  Dark brick red in the glass, again, evidence of the traditional methods employed in making these wines.  The slightly orange hue to the rim belies the wine's age.  This Barolo boasts aromas of meat, leather, tar and cherries.  Flavors follow the aromas with a deep, ripe core of fruit that is surrounded by aggressive tannins. All is in balance, so this will require some age to resolve those tannins and deepen the complexity of this wine.  It's delicious, but will require some patience.  93 points.

 ~ Barolo from the Masculine Brunate Vineyard ~

Vietti Barolo "Lazzarito"

By Vietti's own admission, this is their most approachable, modern rendition of Barolo.  That may be the case, but this is old school Nebbiolo with lots of power behind it.  Aged for 8 months in barrique followed by 2 years in large cask, the wine is softened somewhat upon release, but you can sense it screaming: "don't let that diminish the weight of my message".  That message is restrained power.  On the nose, you sense it brooding in the black plum aromas mixed with meat and flowers.  This dark garnet red Barolo is very inviting to look at.  On the palate the wine is refined and elegant with moderate amounts of tannin.  The chery and plummy fruit are framed with smoke, herbs and tobacco. Still, this wine has lots to give and despite the approachable texture of the tannins, will be much more interesting after 10 years in the cellar.  93 points. 

~ Close Up of the Random & Pretty Vietti Labels ~

Damilano Barolo "LeCinqueVigne"

A blended wine from Damilano's holdings throughout the zone.  This is a bright, vibrant ruby red and the estate's "entry level" Barolo.   The nose has faint asian spices to it that really stand out as unique. There's pretty cherry and anise aromas that carry themselves to the palate. Very elegant, and very approachable.  Another Barolo for near term consumption. 90 points.

Damilano Barolo "Cannubi"

Like it's cousin from Scavino, this is a massive wine.  Deep aromas of roses, turned earth, and crushed cherry follow through to a  full bodied, chewy palate of powerful, muscular Barolo fruit. The back end has begun displaying some smoked meat and dried fennel notes before the tannins clamp down.  A wonderful wine from Cannubi.  94 points.

~ The Pair of Barolo from Damilano:  Cannubi at Left.  Le Cinque Vigne at Right ~

Pio Cesare Barolo

In the seemingly increasing age of vineyard designated Barolo,  with the exception of the Ornato vineyard that they own, Pio Cesare marches on with it's bottling from throughout the zone.  It's almost gotten to the point where consumers look down on wines that are "just Barolo".   In the scheme of things, this of course is ridiculous, but as a result, often times these are great wines that are typically affordable.  

The Pio Cesare is a pretty violet in the glass. The aroma of the wine is classic Pio Cesare. Roses, pine, cherry and fennel combine to form a cover for the earthy notes running underneath.  Some of the tasters did not appreciate the more secondary notes in this wine, but I liked it.  The palate is accessible and fruit driven, with meat, spices and earth on the finish.  Only moderately tannic, this wine excelled with the grilled Karobuta Pork with fennel pollen. The smoke from the chops really played well with the earthy components to the wine.  Delicious now, but will cellar well 8-10 years.  91 points.

~ The Pio Cesare alongside some of the Tasting Participants ~

Paolo Scavino Barolo "Carobric"

This Scavino is a blend of three vineyards that come together not only to form the wine; but to create the acronym that is it's name:  Cannubi - Rocche - Bric del Fiasc.  At the Banville & Jones Portfolio tasting, I was speaking to the winery principle Riccardo Sgarra and I asked him why Scavino chooses to bottle this wine as opposed to fortifying the Cannubi and Bric del Fiasc labels; (Rocche is used in the Riserva)  He told me that this wine was new in 1996 and was created after some sections of the vineyards were re-planted.  Therefore, the fruit here is from younger vines, but still thought to be more "distinctive" than the nebbiolo used for the estate wine. 

No matter. Carobric is accessible, that's for certain.  The tannic structure to the wine is moderated well and the fruit comes to the fore on the nose and palate.  Cherry, spices, powdery mineral and flowers are evident. There's a juicy core of acidity running through this wine that provides substantial freshness.  It paired very well with assorted antipasti of olives, prosciutto, speck and cheese.  91 points.

Barolo Snacks: Sopressata, Speck, Reggiano, Olives

Paolo Scavino Barolo "Bric del Fiasc"

Riccardo told me that this was Scavino's most muscular, masculine Barolo.  I asked him where it fit in with Cannubi and he said:  "Bric del Fiasc is the King, Cannubi is the Queen."  The Bric del Fiasc is indeed powerful.  A brawny behemeth of a Nebbiolo that requires decanting or cellar time or both.  We opened this 2 hours in a decanter and it just began to show some aromas.  There's a huge core of red berry fruit with traces of minerals and flowers on the nose and palate. The stature of the wine is significant and you get the sense that there's plenty of development lurking underneath. There's a distinct fennel laced spice on the finish that is very attractive.  Even with the Fiorentina, this was a brawny wine. With Gorgonzola, it fleshed out more. That may be the best way to approach it now. Cellar it for 10 years.  93-97 points.

~ Scavino Twins:  The Approachable Carobric & the Brawny Bric del Fiasc ~

Sauteed Broccolini & Gorgeous Karobuta Pork Chops for the Grill.  Karobuta, are the Black Berkshire Pigs

Aldo Conterno Barolo

 

Conterno's "Classico" bottling is sourced exclusively from the Bussia vineyard.  Past vintages have been labeled as such, and although the 2008 does not bear that distinction, future vintages will see the notation return.  The nose offers abundant aromas of flowers, black cherry and spice. In the mouth, the wine is very precise, elegant and flavorful with ripe black fruits, a touch of licorice and a floral essence. It's full bodied with ample structure, yet this is already approachable. It's elegant and masculine at the same time and is so well balanced that it can seemingly age effortlessly for a decade. 92 points.

 

Aldo Conterno Barolo "Colonello"

 

Also sourced from Bussia, the Colonello plot comprises soil made mostly of sand, which allows this Barolo to be the most approachable and feminine in Conterno's lineup.  The wine is a dark cherry color, but you can see a slight hint of orange toward the rim. It's open and florally aromatic with loads of berry and cherry fruit. There's spice, fennel and flowers on the palate that surround a very finely grained core of fruit. It's very elegant and easily drinkable right now. Can be cellared, but I'd be more inclined to drink this over the next 5 years.  93 points.

~ Barolo Colonnello & Barolo Bussia from Poderi Aldo Conterno ~

Conterno Fantino Barolo "Sori Ginestra"

 

This bottling from C-F is noticeably different in flavor and style compared to the previously discussed wines.  This single vineyard Barolo, from the "slopes" of the Ginestra vineyard, is a dark blackish red.  There's a slight fade to cherry at the rim. The nose is very spicy, with pepper, baking spices and cherry dominating. In the mouth, there's a large core of cherry fruit, that is slightly tart.  There's lots of spice here;  cinnamon, clove, vanilla bean and a large surround of substantial tannins.  This wine spends 24 months in barrique followed by a year in bottle and it shows.  The spiciness from the oak is slightly out of balance at this point.  Despite the fruit backing it up, I'm not sure if this will be tamed with cellaring.  Well made, but not my style of Barolo.  90 points. 

Sori Ginestra from Conterno Fantino

 

Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo "Monprivato"

 

I'm familiar with this wine and I know it's track record for being a closed bruiser in it's youth. Still, I had them and I wanted to include it in this report so in that sense - I took one for the team!   Having said that, I was determined to allow this wine to show as best as it possibly could.  I remember once that Bruno Giacosa told me that when he has visitors to his cantina, he often tasted them on Barolo that had been opened for several days. In that vein, I decanted this wine and left it to sit in the basement for 36 hours, then returned it to the bottle just before tasting.  Extreme decantation!

 

It's a blackish red - solidly through.  The aromas showed no signs of ill treatment for the extended air time and they are generous.  The complexity is here.  There's abundant aromas of flowers and lavendar.  There's cherry, slight dirt/tar and a hint of orange rind.  On the palate there's a huge massive core of berry fruit, with massive but fully ripened tannins and acids providing a mammothly structured wine that is both powerful and elegant at the same time.  I hate to use the phrase "iron fist in a velvet glove" but that's the sense here.  Lots of ripe tobacco, soft mushroom, anise/dried fennel and a floral perfume complete the essence of the mouthfeel.  We tasted this with a wild mushroom risotto, with truffle oil and reggiano cheese and the pairing was absolutely decadent.  Some smoked duck breast also completed the marriage. I can see this easily being one of the top 5 wines of the vintage and effortlessly developing in the cellar for up to 40 years.  Buy what you can afford for this is bottled art.  97 points with the potential to improve.  

~ G. Mascarello Monprivato ~

Once again, my sincere appreciation to all those that contributed to, participated in, and made this report possible.  Thanks to all the importers and distributors that contributed.  I hope consumers and those in the business enjoyed this report.

Salute!